The boutique was located at 20 rue de la Paix, Paris. Other sources report that Isabey was originally from Spain. Also, it is interesting to note that some of the perfumes launch dates are earlier than the 1924 Parisian establishment date, which may support the earlier establishment in Spain. The company was named after early 19th century painter Louis Gabriel Eugene Isabey.
Harrisburg Telegraph, 1924:
"Baron Henri de Rothschild has joined the ranks of the millionaire scent manufacturers, which already include M. Wertheimer, the owner of Epinard, M. Coty and Mr. Rigaud. The baron’s brand of perfumes is to be known as Isabey. Baron de Rothschild is a full qualified doctor and under the pseudonym of Andre Pascal has written several plays which have been produced at Parisian theatres."
The company conveyed the image of long-established, refined French artistry. Because they were well-financed, the company had all the earmarks of success: only the highest-quality perfumes with luxurious presentations and a most splendid shop. The company won first prize at the Art Deco Paris Exhibition, not too shabby for a company that was barely a year old. So great was their success that they had considerable exports to the USA.
In addition to perfumes, Isabey also produced lipsticks, face powder, compacts, dusting powder, and a facial cleanser called Lait du Concombre, or milk of cucumber.
Many of their bottles were designed by Julien Viard and produced by Baccarat, Bobin Freres Glassworks and Rene Lalique. Paper, labels and graphics were supplied by the company of Sennet et Cie.
The perfume of Mon Seul Ami came in a black crystal flacon trimmed with silver overlay, in three graduated sizes, manufactured by Ludwig Moser Glassworks in Bohemia in 1926. An earlier bottle for Mon Seul Ami, and used for other perfumes, was originally designed by Henri Hamm in 1914, and made up of clear and frosted crystal molded with abstract floral patterns, manufactured by Bobin Freres Glassworks.
Several of Isabey’s perfumes were presented in pearlized flacons by Andre Jolivet and manufactured by the Nesle Normandeuse Glassworks around 1925. These iridescent flacons were in the shape of pearls and came in various sizes, each was presented in a purple leatherette case. The most famous of these presentations was the six bottle Le Collier d’Isabey, which mimicked a pearl necklace housed in a demi-lune shaped case, which won them the Gold Medal at the 1925 Paris Exhibition and was awarded gold, not bad for a company that was barely one year old. Isabey dubbed these flacons the "Perle Flacons"
The flacon for Bleu de Chine, from 1925, was designed by Julien Viard and manufactured by the Bobin Freres Glassworks. It featured jewel like enameling over its floral molded façade. Bleu de Chine was also presented in a five piece set by Ludwig Moser of Bohemia. The perfume has the scent of lotuses.
1925’s Rose de Argent’s round bottle was made up of cobalt blue glass and rested inside of a silver plated base, this flacon was also designed by Julien Viard.
Another cobalt blue glass bottle was created, this time by Ludwig Moser. The bottle is a lozenge shape and trimmed with silver enameling. The name Isabey is stenciled in silver enamel on the top of the stopper. The bottle is engraved with "Moser, Karlovy Vary" on the base. I am unsure which perfume this bottle held or if it was used for more than one perfume by Isabey. The bottle dates to the 1920s. The bottle stands 4.09" tall x 2.55" wide.
The unusual bottle for Ambre de Carthage, designed by Julien Viard, featured a melted wax type of enameled decoration, as if it was being dripped onto the top and shoulders of the clear oval shaped bottle.
Simple lines and an ovoid shape defined the bottles for Le Muguet, Le Mimosa and Gardenia in Julien Viard’s 1926 flacons of clear crystal.
In 1927, Julien Viard created a tall flacon for Sourire Fleuri which featured a frieze of nude Neo-Classical figures enhanced by black patina, made by Depinoix, a similar flacon was created for La Route d’Emeraude in 1924.
Another clear crystal bottle for Le Lys Noir was manufactured in 1928 by Rene Lalique, this time, it was covered with black enameled Egyptian lotuses.
A black glass bottle was created for 1931's Garden of Love perfume, which was housed inside of a pink and black presentation box. I believe that this bottle was created by Cristalleries de Nancy.
Isabey also produced several fragrances in simple, clear glass cylindrical bottles, known by Isabey as the "Flacon Cylindrique". These bottles had ball shaped glass stoppers and paper labels that wrapped around the top portion of the bottle. The boxes were simple cylindrical cardboard covered in white paper and decorated with the perfume's name in an Art Deco script. The bottle was used for both parfum and eau de toilette. A miniature 1/4 oz size was introduced in 1929 and was perfect for the purse.
Matching dusting powder and face powder boxes also completed the line and accompanied the fragrances. The perfumes usually seen in these bottles were Bleu de Chine, Mon Seul Ami, Sourire Fleuri, Le Rayon Vert, Le Jasmin, La Rose, Chypre, Le Gardenia, Le Lilas, Lys, Le Mimosa, Oeillet, and La Violette. This design was discontinued in the early 1930s and replaced by an octagonal shaped bottle, which was discontinued as early as 1934.
Park & Tilford were the distributors for Isabey in America. By 1930, The American company for Isabey was named Les Parfums d'Isabey-Pans. Inc.
American Druggist - Volume 95, 1931:
"They Sold Themselves" describes how Miriam Acker, sales manager for Isabey, interested Baron Henri de Rothschild in launching Isabey-Paris perfumes on the American market."
"Then there are Isabey's famous perfumes, including Bleu de Chine, Lys, and Noir."
Dance Magazine, Volume 17, 1931:
“Isabey of Paris, is now selling many of its well-known perfumes in small one dollar sizes. Isabey specializes in flower and bouquet odeurs and among other you will find gardenia, jasmin, lilac, mimosa, chypre, rose and violet. A small flacon and a lovely handkerchief will constitute a very luxurious gift."
The relaunch of its infamous luscious Gardenia perfume. The new Gardenia actually uses pure Gardenia extract instead of a Gardenia accord.
- Top notes: Italian mandarin, tangerine bark, ylang-ylang, orange blossom absolute, neroli.
- Middle notes: gardenia extract, Bulgarian rose oil, jasmine, iris.
- Base notes: white leather, labdanum, patchouli oil, musk, ambergris, Indian sandalwood oil.
A sumptuous limited edition in the vintage pearl style bottle was offered in 2006 and almost immediately sold out. It was relaunched again in the familiar gold spray bottle in 2007 to satisfy further demand.
- Top notes: mandarin, white peach and apricot blossom
- Middle notes: jasmine, gardenia and magnolia
- Base notes: solar notes, patchouli and vanilla.
2011 saw the launch of the first men's fragrance by Isabey, called L'Ambre de Carthage, the name was recycled from a perfume originally launched in the 1920s, evoking the ancient Tunisian city of Carthage.
- Top notes: citrus, labdanum, cinnamon, cardamom, bergamot
- Middle notes: jasmine, thyme, geranium, osmanthus blossom, jasmine tea, olibanum.
- Base notes: ambergris, birch, patchouli, musk and sandalwood.
In 2012, Isabey released La Route d'Emeraude, the name was borrowed from a 1920s perfume. The name was inspired by journeys to the emerald triangle of Thailand, Laos and Cambodia.
- Top notes: bergamot, rose oil and cinnamon.
- Middle notes: Sambac jasmine, Moroccan jasmine absolute, orange blossom and tuberose.
- Base notes: amber, vanilla, benzoin and musk.
In 2014, Isabey launched Lys Noir, this oriental floral fragrance for women was based on the 1924 perfume of the same name.
- Top note: black pepper, lily
- Middle notes: ylang ylang, tuberose, narcissus, and heliotrope
- Base notes: ebony wood, patchouli, musk and sandalwood
In 2014, Isabey also released limited editions of the Perle flacon, holding 50ml extraits of Gardenia, Lys Noir and La Route d'Emeraude. Each retails for $355.
Perle de Lys Noir:
- Top note: black pepper, broom absolute, black lily
- Middle notes: jasmine oil, ylang ylang, tuberose oil, narcissus, and heliotrope
- Base notes: cashmere wood, ambergris, vanilla, incense, sandalwood oil, patchouli, musk and ebony