The launch of "A Travers la Voilette" by Isabey in 1925 coincided with a fascinating period in history. The 1920s, often referred to as the "Roaring Twenties," were characterized by significant cultural shifts, particularly in fashion, art, and societal norms. This was the era of flappers, jazz, Art Deco, and the emancipation of women.
The choice of the name "Through the Veil" likely reflects the spirit of this time period. The term "veil" carries a symbolic weight, suggesting mystery, allure, and a sense of hidden depths waiting to be explored. In the context of the 1920s, it could evoke the idea of breaking free from traditional constraints and societal norms, peeling back the layers to reveal new possibilities and experiences.
While the name "Through the Veil" doesn't explicitly mention bridal veils, it could still be interpreted in that context. The 1920s witnessed significant changes in wedding attire and customs, with bridal fashion reflecting the more liberated spirit of the era. The use of the veil motif on the presentation box and bottle further reinforces the idea of unveiling something new, perhaps symbolizing the journey into a world of luxury, sensuality, and sophistication that the perfume promises to offer.
Overall, "Through the Veil" captures the essence of the 1920s zeitgeist, with its blend of mystique, modernity, and a hint of romance.
The erroneous appearance of "A Travers la Violette" instead of "A Travers la Voilette" might have been a result of a typographical error or a misinterpretation of the name. "Violette" means "violet" in French, which is a flower known for its delicate beauty and sweet fragrance.
However, "A Travers la Voilette" translates to "Through the Veil," indicating a different theme altogether. While "violet" and "veil" may sound somewhat similar phonetically, their meanings are distinct.
The original name "Through the Veil" suggests a sense of mystery, allure, and liberation, which aligns more closely with the imagery of unveiling and exploring hidden depths. On the other hand, "A Travers la Violette" would evoke images of the flower itself, possibly implying a floral or romantic scent profile.
It's important to rectify such errors to ensure the accurate representation of the perfume's concept and theme. The intended name "A Travers la Voilette" with its veil motif reflects the essence of the fragrance and its historical context more accurately.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? I do not have any notes on this composition.
Perfumes of the 1920s were a symphony of opulence, sophistication, and daring innovation, echoing the spirit of the Jazz Age. Embracing the liberation of women and the flourishing Art Deco movement, fragrances of this era featured bold compositions that captivated the senses with their complexity and glamour.
While the specific notes of A Travers la Voilette remain unknown, typical perfumes of the time showcased a lavish array of ingredients. Rose, with its timeless elegance, lent a rich, romantic depth to fragrances, while jasmine added an intoxicating allure, enveloping wearers in its exotic sweetness. Violet, reminiscent of vintage glamour, imparted a delicate, powdery sweetness, evoking nostalgia and sophistication. These floral essences were often complemented by other luxurious ingredients, such as ambergris, which provided a warm, animalic depth, and exotic woods, adding a sensual earthiness to the compositions.
Aldehydes, with their sparkling effervescence, brought a modern twist to classic florals, enhancing their vibrancy and allure. Alongside these key elements, other florals like tuberose and ylang-ylang, as well as musky undertones and powdery iris, contributed to the complex and multifaceted nature of 1920s perfumery. In this era of experimentation and bold expression, fragrances became a reflection of the changing times, embodying both the glamour of the past and the excitement of the future.
Bottles:
The exquisite square crystal bottle of A Travers la Voilette was crafted by the renowned glassmaker René Lalique, renowned for his mastery in creating stunning art deco pieces. Its enchanting design was further enhanced by the skilled hand of artist Alix, who meticulously applied the delicate enamel decoration.One variation of this masterpiece showcases a subtle yet captivating stencil of flowers and leaves in gold and black enamel, elegantly adorning the lower portion of the bottle. Another iteration features a striking motif resembling stylized black "scales," accentuated by gold enamel dots, cleverly evoking the veil theme that echoes the presentation box. This intricate embellishment, possibly also hand-painted by Alix, beautifully captures the essence of mystery and allure inherent in the perfume's name.
Dating back to the vibrant 1920s, this Lalique creation remains a timeless symbol of luxury and sophistication, embodying the spirit of an era marked by artistic innovation and cultural dynamism.
Another enchanting rendition of the A Travers la Voilette perfume bottle was crafted by the talented designer Julien Viard. This unique bottle, crafted from pressed glass, boasts a distinctive cubic rectangular shape, showcasing Viard's ingenuity in design. Its flared belly is adorned with molded decorations featuring delicate gray-patinated florets, arranged in elegant reserves. The attention to detail extends to the cap cabochon, which echoes the same exquisite floral motif, ensuring a harmonious and sophisticated presentation.
Another enchanting rendition of the A Travers la Voilette perfume bottle was crafted by the talented designer Julien Viard. This unique bottle, crafted from pressed glass, boasts a distinctive cubic rectangular shape, showcasing Viard's ingenuity in design. Its flared belly is adorned with molded decorations featuring delicate gray-patinated florets, arranged in elegant reserves. The attention to detail extends to the cap cabochon, which echoes the same exquisite floral motif, ensuring a harmonious and sophisticated presentation.
Each bottle in this series is numbered, adding a touch of exclusivity to the collector's item. Although unsigned, the design bears the unmistakable hallmark of Viard's artistic vision. Standing at a height of 9.5 cm, this miniature masterpiece encapsulates the essence of the perfume's allure and elegance, making it a coveted treasure for perfume connoisseurs and collectors alike.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Despite its popularity and acclaim, A Travers la Voilette eventually met the fate of many iconic fragrances—it was discontinued. Unfortunately, the exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown. However, historical records indicate that the perfume was still available for purchase as late as 1927, suggesting that its production ceased sometime thereafter.
This discontinuation marked the end of an era for fragrance enthusiasts, leaving behind a legacy of timeless elegance and sophistication. While its original formula may be lost to time, the memory of A Travers la Voilette lives on, preserved in the annals of perfume history as a beloved emblem of the enchanting allure of the 1920s.
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