L'Ambre de Carthage by Isabey c1924

L'Ambre de Carthage by Isabey, launched in 1924, was introduced during the Roaring Twenties, a fascinating and transitional period characterized by dramatic social and cultural changes, economic prosperity, and a break from traditional norms, particularly in Western countries. This era saw the rise of jazz music, flapper fashion, and significant advancements in art, literature, and technology. Women's roles in society were evolving, with greater emphasis on independence and self-expression following World War I. Perfumes became an essential accessory, reflecting the modern woman's identity and style.

The perfume, created by Jean Jacques, drew inspiration from the ancient city of Carthage, located in modern-day Tunisia. Carthage was a prominent and influential civilization in the ancient Mediterranean, known for its wealth, culture, and historical significance. Founded by the Phoenicians in the 9th century BCE, Carthage grew to become a powerful city-state with a vast trading empire that stretched across the Mediterranean. Its strategic location made it a center of commerce and culture, renowned for its luxury goods, advanced architecture, and complex social structures. The name "L'Ambre de Carthage" evokes this rich and exotic heritage, aiming to capture the essence of ancient opulence and mystery.

The reference to Carthage likely appealed to contemporary tastes for the exotic and historical. During the 1920s, there was a fascination with ancient civilizations, partly fueled by archaeological discoveries like the tomb of Tutankhamun in 1922. This trend made historical and exotic inspirations particularly appealing to the luxury market. Amber, a key note in the perfume, has long been associated with luxury, warmth, and sensuality. By incorporating amber, the fragrance evoked a sense of timeless elegance and richness, resonating with sophisticated women of the era who sought to embody these qualities.

The Roaring Twenties was a time when women were exploring new freedoms and expressions of identity. Perfumes became a means of self-expression and a way to embrace modernity while retaining a connection to the past. L'Ambre de Carthage, with its historical and exotic undertones, appealed to women looking for a unique and distinguished scent that set them apart from the more conventional floral fragrances of the time. The Art Deco movement, which was at its peak during the 1920s, emphasized bold geometric patterns, luxurious materials, and a fascination with modernity and progress. The luxurious and exotic nature of L'Ambre de Carthage aligned well with the aesthetics of Art Deco, making it fashionable among the elite who were drawn to the modern yet historically inspired designs.

In summary, L'Ambre de Carthage was launched in a vibrant and transformative period, drawing inspiration from the grandeur of ancient Carthage to appeal to modern, sophisticated women of the Roaring Twenties. Its exotic and luxurious character resonated with contemporary tastes for historical romanticism and modern elegance, making it a coveted accessory for the era's fashion-forward women.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? I have no notes for the original fragrance for women. It was described as "exotic in its richness of odor." I have created a possible fragrance profile based on the recreation from 2011 and from other perfumes from the time period:

• Top notes: bergamot, mandarin, spices
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, ylang ylang
• Base notes: ambergris, patchouli, sandalwood, labdanum, vanilla, incense

Scent Profile:

Given the description of L'Ambre de Carthage as "exotic in its richness of odor" and the time period in which it was created, we can infer some likely notes that would have been used in its composition. Perfumes of the 1920s often featured rich, opulent, and complex scents, reflecting the era's fascination with luxury and exoticism. Ambergris, a rare and precious ingredient, was commonly used to add depth and warmth. Here are some notes that might have been included in L'Ambre de Carthage:

Top Notes

• Bergamot: A fresh, citrusy note that adds brightness and helps to balance the richer notes.
• Mandarin: Another citrus note that would provide a fresh and slightly sweet opening.
• Spices (e.g., Cardamom, Clove): These would add warmth and an exotic spiciness to the initial scent profile.

Heart (Middle) Notes

• Rose: A classic and romantic note, rose adds a floral richness that complements the exotic base.
• Jasmine: With its heady and intoxicating aroma, jasmine is often used to add an exotic and luxurious touch.
• Ylang-Ylang: This tropical flower provides a sweet, floral, and slightly spicy note, enhancing the exotic feel.

Base Notes

• Ambergris: Known for its warm, musky, and slightly sweet aroma, ambergris would have provided a rich and lasting foundation for the perfume.
• Sandalwood: Offering a creamy, woody note, sandalwood adds depth and sophistication.
• Patchouli: This earthy and slightly sweet note would contribute to the exotic character of the fragrance.
• Labdanum: Often used to create a resinous, ambery note, labdanum would enhance the richness and complexity.
• Incense: A smoky, resinous note that adds a mysterious and exotic element.
• Vanilla: Providing a sweet and creamy aspect, vanilla would contribute to the overall warmth and appeal of the fragrance.

Overall Composition

The combination of these notes would create a perfume that is rich, warm, and opulent, reflecting the luxurious and exotic inspirations of the time. The use of ambergris as a key ingredient would ensure a long-lasting and complex scent, while the floral heart notes and spicy top notes would provide layers of interest and depth. Such a composition would have appealed to the sophisticated women of the 1920s, who were looking for fragrances that embodied both modernity and a connection to the historical and exotic past.

In summary, L'Ambre de Carthage was launched in a vibrant and transformative period, drawing inspiration from the grandeur of ancient Carthage to appeal to modern, sophisticated women of the Roaring Twenties. Its complex and luxurious composition, featuring top notes of cardamom, thyme, and cinnamon; middle notes of rose, geranium, patchouli, jasmine, and olibanum; and base notes of vanilla, musk, sandalwood, and amber, resonated with contemporary tastes for historical romanticism and modern elegance, making it a coveted accessory for the era's fashion-forward women.

Bottle:

The allure of L'Ambre de Carthage extended beyond its scent; the perfume bottles were themselves objects of fascination. Designed by Julien Viard, the packaging was a testament to the luxurious and exotic aesthetic of the Roaring Twenties. Each bottle was nestled within a dragon-themed box, adorned with intricate details and lined with striking yellow fabric, hinting at the opulence contained within.

The bottle itself was a work of art. A short, squatty design made of colorless glass, it exuded elegance and sophistication. However, it was the embellishments that truly set it apart. Thickly applied orange enamel adorned the surface, reminiscent of melted candlewax. This unique feature added a tactile element to the design, inviting the beholder to run their fingers over its textured surface.

The choice of orange enamel not only added visual interest but also enhanced the perfume's exotic allure. The warm, vibrant hue evoked images of sunsets over ancient Carthaginian landscapes, adding depth and dimension to the sensory experience of the fragrance.

Overall, the combination of Viard's masterful design and the exotic allure of the packaging elevated L'Ambre de Carthage from a mere perfume to a coveted objet d'art. It embodied the spirit of the Roaring Twenties, where luxury, elegance, and a hint of mystery were paramount.

Other bottles used:

1926 Julien Viard designed Ambre De Carthage perfume bottle and stopper, made up of clear and frosted glass, accented with gray patina. Original box with stylized scrolling floral pattern. Bottle stands 2 3/4" tall.

Perle Flacon:

Fate of the Perfume:

Despite its initial success and allure, L'Ambre de Carthage met its end by the 1940s, a casualty of changing tastes and tumultuous times. The perfume, once a symbol of luxury and sophistication, faded into obscurity as the world underwent significant shifts during the interwar period.

The 1940s marked a period of profound change, with the onset of World War II reshaping economies, societies, and cultural landscapes. The priorities of consumers shifted dramatically during this time, with a focus on necessities rather than luxuries. Additionally, the war disrupted supply chains and manufacturing processes, making it difficult for non-essential industries such as perfumery to thrive.

Furthermore, evolving trends in perfumery may have contributed to L'Ambre de Carthage's demise. By the 1940s, fragrances had evolved to reflect the changing attitudes and preferences of consumers. New ingredients, compositions, and marketing strategies emerged, catering to shifting tastes and societal norms. L'Ambre de Carthage, with its evocation of a bygone era and its exotic, opulent character, may have seemed out of step with the zeitgeist of the time.

Ultimately, the combination of economic challenges, societal upheaval, and changing trends led to the discontinuation of L'Ambre de Carthage. Despite its brief moment in the spotlight, the perfume was consigned to the annals of history, remembered only by those who had once been captivated by its exotic allure.

Reformulation & Relaunch:

In a nostalgic nod to the past, Panouge revived the legacy of L'Ambre de Carthage in 2011 with the launch of the first men's fragrance under their Isabey label. Created by the esteemed perfumer Jean Jacques, who had crafted the original scent back in 1924, this modern iteration paid homage to its illustrious predecessor while introducing a new olfactory experience for a contemporary audience.

With the recycled name "L'Ambre de Carthage," Panouge sought to evoke the timeless allure and exotic mystique of the ancient city while infusing it with a fresh interpretation suited for the modern man. This reimagined fragrance captured the essence of masculinity with its sophisticated blend of notes, drawing inspiration from both the rich history of Carthage and the evolving trends of the 21st century.

While staying true to the original's core concept of opulence and richness, the 2011 version of L'Ambre de Carthage likely featured a composition tailored to the preferences of contemporary men. It may have incorporated a balance of classic and modern elements, blending traditional masculine notes with innovative accords to create a scent that was both timeless and relevant.

The revival of L'Ambre de Carthage in 2011 not only honored the heritage of the Isabey label but also offered a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts the opportunity to experience the captivating journey through time and scent, from the ancient splendor of Carthage to the dynamic present-day world.

• Top notes: bergamot, labdanum, cardamom, thyme, cinnamon
• Middle notes: geranium, patchouli, osmanthus blossom, jasmine, olibanum
• Base notes: birch, musk, sandalwood, amber

Scent Profile:

I received a sample from Panouge and just applied some to my arm. At first sniff I get olibanum incense. Lots of incense. The incense reminds me of Tom Ford's masterpiece, Sahara Noir. 

The fragrance opens with a blend of vibrant top notes that include cardamom, thyme, and cinnamon. These spices provide a warm and inviting introduction, adding a touch of exoticism and complexity right from the outset. Cardamom offers a fresh, spicy, and slightly sweet aroma, while thyme contributes an herbal undertone, and cinnamon adds warmth and a subtle sweetness. This intriguing combination would have immediately captivated those who experienced the perfume.

At its heart, L'Ambre de Carthage features a rich bouquet of floral and resinous middle notes. The classic elegance of rose and the sweet, slightly spicy aroma of geranium create a sophisticated floral harmony. Patchouli, with its earthy and musky scent, adds depth and complexity, while jasmine introduces an intoxicating and exotic floral note. Olibanum, also known as frankincense, provides a resinous, smoky quality that enhances the overall richness and exotic character of the fragrance.

The base notes of L'Ambre de Carthage are anchored by a luxurious and opulent blend of vanilla, musk, sandalwood, and amber. Vanilla lends a creamy and sweet aspect to the composition, while musk adds a sensual and animalistic touch. Sandalwood provides a smooth, woody foundation, and amber, the signature note, brings warmth, depth, and a lasting richness. These base notes ensure that the fragrance lingers beautifully on the skin, leaving a lasting impression of sophistication and exotic allure.

Fate of the Fragrance:

L'Ambre de Carthage was discontinued, date unknown/ Still sold in 1927. L'Ambre de Carthage held a special place in the hearts of many fragrance enthusiasts for its exotic allure and rich history. Its absence from Parfums Isabey's website signals the end of an era, marking the conclusion of a chapter in the world of perfumery.

Discontinuation can happen for various reasons, from changes in consumer preferences to challenges in sourcing ingredients or production costs. While it's a loss for those who cherished L'Ambre de Carthage, it's also a reminder to treasure the fragrances we love while they're still available.

Although L'Ambre de Carthage may no longer be accessible through official channels, there may still be opportunities to find it through alternative avenues such as specialty retailers, online marketplaces, or fragrance communities. Sometimes discontinued fragrances become sought-after collector's items, cherished by those who appreciate their unique charm and nostalgia.

While it's uncertain whether L'Ambre de Carthage will ever make a return, its legacy lives on in the memories of those who experienced its enchanting scent. And who knows, perhaps one day it will be resurrected or inspire a new generation of perfumers to create something equally captivating.