La Route d'Emeraude by Isabey, launched in 1924, emerges from a period rich in both historical transformation and cultural opulence. This era saw significant strides in luxury and elegance, a time when the legacy of ancient trade routes continued to shape the Western world's fascination with exotic goods and precious gemstones.
The 1920s, often referred to as the Roaring Twenties, was a decade marked by economic prosperity and cultural dynamism in many parts of the world, particularly in the United States and Europe. This period followed the devastating impacts of World War I and was characterized by a strong desire for newness and modernity. Society was undergoing rapid changes with advancements in technology, transportation, and communication, which in turn influenced fashion, art, and luxury goods.
During the 1920s, luxury jewelry saw a significant evolution, embracing the Art Deco style which dominated the era. Art Deco, with its emphasis on geometric shapes, bold colors, and lavish ornamentation, reflected the zeitgeist of modernity and progress. This style often incorporated an array of precious gemstones, which were sourced from regions connected by ancient trade routes.
The name "La Route d'Emeraude" (The Emerald Route) evokes the storied pathways of the ancient world that facilitated the exchange of precious goods. The Silk Road, a series of overland routes extending about 4,000 miles from China to Europe, transported a variety of goods, including silk, spices, and gemstones, connecting the East with the West. Precious stones like rubies from Myanmar and sapphires from Ceylon (modern-day Sri Lanka) traveled along this route. Similarly, the Spice Route, a maritime route, connected East and Southeast Asia with the Middle East and Europe. Goods were transported by sea, passing through key ports in India and the Arabian Peninsula, eventually making their way to Europe, often landing first in Venice, Italy, a major hub of trade.
These routes facilitated not just the exchange of goods but also the interchange of cultures, ideas, and technologies, significantly impacting the societies connected by these networks. Marco Polo, the famed Venetian explorer, chronicled his travels along these routes, highlighting the exotic and luxurious nature of the goods traded. Rubies from Myanmar, known for their deep red hue and exceptional quality; sapphires from Ceylon, celebrated for their striking blue color; diamonds from India, revered for their brilliance and historical significance; and emeralds from Pakistan and Afghanistan, renowned for their vivid green color and rarity, all traveled along these ancient trade networks.
Isabey's chief perfumer, Robert Bienaimé, drew inspiration from these historical trade routes and the luxurious goods they transported. La Route d'Emeraude encapsulates the allure and mystery of the ancient trade networks, blending exotic and opulent notes to evoke a sense of adventure and luxury. In 1924, when La Route d'Emeraude was introduced, the world was captivated by the idea of travel and the romance of distant lands. The perfume's name and composition reflect the fascination with exoticism and the enduring legacy of the trade routes that had, for centuries, brought the treasures of the East to the Western world.
La Route d'Emeraude by Isabey is more than just a fragrance; it is a tribute to a bygone era of luxury and exploration. Launched in a time of significant cultural and social change, it captures the essence of the Roaring Twenties' opulence and the historical significance of the ancient trade routes that shaped global history. The perfume's evocative name and luxurious composition serve as a reminder of the enduring allure of precious gemstones and the storied paths that brought them to the world.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It was classified as an oriental fragrance for women.- Top notes: bergamot, rose oil, cinnamon
- Middle notes: jasmine, orange blossom, tuberose
- Base notes: ambergris, vanilla, benzoin, musk
Scent Profile:
Top Notes
Bergamot: Imagine yourself standing at a bustling marketplace at the start of an ancient trade route. The sun is rising, casting a golden hue over the array of goods displayed. You pick up a bergamot, a citrus fruit from the orchards of Southern Italy. As you peel it, the air is instantly filled with a refreshing, zesty scent. The fragrance is bright and uplifting, like a cool breeze sweeping through the busy market stalls, cutting through the warmth of the day.
Rose Oil: Nearby, traders from Persia have laid out sacks of dried rose petals and tiny vials of precious rose essence. You close your eyes and inhale the intoxicating aroma of the rose oil, a luxurious scent that speaks of opulence and romance. It is rich and deep, with a hint of sweetness that envelops you, reminiscent of the lush gardens in ancient Persian palaces where these roses were once cultivated.
Cinnamon: As you continue your journey, you encounter merchants from Ceylon, their stalls brimming with spices. You pick up a stick of cinnamon and bring it to your nose. The fragrance is warm and spicy, evoking images of ancient caravans transporting this precious spice across deserts and mountains. It’s a scent that wraps around you like a comforting blanket, adding a touch of exotic warmth to the air.
Middle Notes
Sambac Jasmine: Now, you find yourself in a serene garden at dusk, somewhere in the heart of Asia. The night-blooming jasmine, or Sambac jasmine, releases its fragrance into the cool evening air. The scent is sweet and heady, almost narcotic, enveloping you in a cloud of floral bliss. It is both exotic and familiar, like a whisper of far-off lands where the air is filled with the aroma of blooming flowers.
Moroccan Jasmine Absolute: Moving westward, you arrive at the fragrant markets of Morocco. Here, the jasmine absolute is more intense, with a richness that is almost tangible. It’s a scent that captures the essence of the sun-drenched fields where these flowers are harvested, a blend of sweetness and slight earthiness that speaks of the land’s fertility and the artisans' dedication to extracting this precious essence.
Orange Blossom: The scent of orange blossom transports you to a Mediterranean garden, where the citrus trees are in full bloom. It’s a bright, uplifting fragrance with a touch of green freshness, reminiscent of the first light of dawn. The orange blossom’s delicate yet powerful scent brings a sense of purity and tranquility, a symbol of new beginnings and timeless beauty.
Tuberose: As you continue your exploration, the rich, creamy scent of tuberose captures your attention. It’s a complex floral note, both sweet and spicy, with a depth that is almost intoxicating. The tuberose’s scent is lush and opulent, reminiscent of exotic gardens along the trade routes where such rare and beautiful flowers were once cultivated.
Base Notes
Ambergris: The journey leads you to the shores of the Arabian Sea, where ambergris, a rare and valuable substance, has been collected from the ocean. Its scent is earthy and oceanic, with a musky undertone that adds depth and mystery. Ambergris brings a sense of timelessness, a connection to the ancient seas that have carried traders and their precious cargo for centuries.
Vanilla: As you reach the spice markets of Madagascar, the sweet, creamy scent of vanilla fills the air. It’s warm and comforting, with a richness that is both familiar and exotic. Vanilla’s scent is like a soothing balm, a reminder of the sweetness of life and the treasures found along the journey.
Benzoin: Moving into the heart of the ancient temples of Southeast Asia, you encounter benzoin resin being burned as incense. Its fragrance is warm and balsamic, with a hint of sweetness. It’s a grounding scent that evokes a sense of spirituality and reverence, a link to the sacred rituals and ancient traditions of these lands.
Musk: Finally, you reach the end of your journey, where the scent of musk awaits you. It’s a deep, animalistic fragrance, rich and warm, that lingers on the skin. Musk’s scent is both primal and luxurious, evoking the allure of ancient empires and the timeless quest for beauty and luxury.
Each of these ingredients in La Route d'Emeraude tells a story of the ancient trade routes and the precious gemstones they transported. Together, they create a rich tapestry of scents that capture the essence of luxury, adventure, and the enduring allure of far-off lands.
Bottle:
The perfume bottle for La Route d'Emeraude, designed in 1924 by the renowned Julien Viard, is a stunning piece of art that encapsulates the luxurious essence of the perfume it contains. Crafted from clear and frosted crystal, the bottle stands at an elegant 4 7/8 inches tall. It features intricate moulding with a band of playful putti (cherubic figures) and garlands, evoking a sense of classical beauty and timeless elegance. The delicate accents of grey patina highlight the detailed craftsmanship, adding depth and contrast to the design.
The stopper, seamlessly integrated with the bottle, continues the theme of exquisite artistry, enhancing the overall aesthetic appeal. The bottle's base is meticulously molded with "J. Viard," a mark of authenticity and a tribute to the designer's legacy in the world of perfume bottles.
Complementing the bottle is a beautifully decorated Spanish leather box adorned with scrolling floral motifs, providing a fitting enclosure for such a luxurious item. The box not only protects the perfume but also serves as an elegant presentation, making La Route d'Emeraude a coveted item for collectors and connoisseurs alike.
Julien Viard's design for La Route d'Emeraude is a perfect blend of art and functionality, capturing the opulence and allure of the Roaring Twenties. The use of putti and garlands, combined with the refined clear and frosted crystal, reflects the romanticism and sophistication of the era. This bottle is more than just a container; it is a work of art that enhances the overall experience of the perfume, making it a true treasure of its time.
No less exquisite is another remarkable bottle designed by Julien Viard. This lovely bottle, crafted from clear and partially frosted glass, showcases Viard's mastery of blending form and function with artistic elegance. The bottle features a square, bulbous base adorned with a molded design of broad leaves and flowers, capturing the essence of nature in intricate detail.
As the bottle tapers upward, it transforms into a truncated pyramid shape, adding a geometric sophistication to its organic base. This unique structure draws the eye upwards to the frosted glass stopper, which is elegantly shaped like a flower bud. The contrast between the clear and frosted glass highlights the delicate intricacies of the design.
The truncated pyramidal body, with its molded decoration in the lower part featuring flowers and foliage, complements the overall aesthetic with a sense of harmony and natural beauty. The conical cap is decorated with patinated scales, adding a touch of refinement and textural contrast.
Housed in a luxurious presentation case, the bottle is further elevated in its appeal. The case opens with double doors, revealing an interior lined in sumptuous yellow silk that cradles the bottle. The exterior of the box is covered with tooled Morocco leather, providing a rich and tactile experience that underscores the luxury and craftsmanship associated with Julien Viard's designs.
This presentation not only protects the delicate bottle but also enhances its allure, making it a perfect piece for collectors and admirers of fine perfumery. The combination of the elegant bottle and its opulent case reflects the sophistication and artistic excellence of the era, capturing the timeless beauty and allure of luxury perfume bottles designed by Julien Viard.
In the opulent era of the 1920s, luxury was not merely about the fragrance itself but extended to the very presentation of the perfume. La Route d'Emeraude epitomized this ethos with its presentation in exquisite pearly bottles crafted by the esteemed designer Julien Viard. Each bottle was a masterpiece in its own right, reminiscent of the treasures coveted by the elite.
The allure began with the packaging itself – luxurious presentation boxes meticulously crafted by Maison Sorys. These boxes were no ordinary containers; they were encased in sumptuous purple leather, a color that symbolized royalty and extravagance. The leather was adorned with intricate gilded tracery, adding an extra touch of opulence. As one opened the box, the scent of wealth and sophistication wafted forth, enhanced by the sight within.
Inside, the interior of the box was a spectacle in its own right. Lined with a vivid hue of padded violet silk and velvet, it evoked images of the most precious jewelry cases. Each detail was carefully considered to elevate the experience of unveiling the fragrance to a moment of pure indulgence and decadence.
Nestled within this luxurious setting lay the pièce de résistance – the pearl-shaped flacon. Crafted with unparalleled skill by the artisans of Nesle Normandeuse Glassworks, these bottles were not just containers but objets d'art. Andre Jolivet's ingenious "laitance de hareng" pearlization technique bestowed upon them a lustrous sheen, reminiscent of the iridescence of pearls harvested from the depths of the ocean.
Together, the pearly bottles, adorned with gilded tracery, nestled within plush purple velvet, encapsulated the essence of luxury in the 1920s. They were not merely vessels for a scent but symbols of prestige and refinement, coveted by those who sought to surround themselves with the finest things in life.
The delicate nature of the pearl coating on La Route d'Emeraude's bottles adds an intriguing layer of history and vulnerability to these exquisite artifacts of luxury. Over the passage of time, it's not uncommon to discover antique bottles where much of the fragile pearl coating has gracefully worn away, revealing the clear glass beneath. This transformation speaks to the journey these bottles have undertaken, bearing witness to the years gone by.
However, this fragility also presents a challenge for collectors and enthusiasts. Cleaning these precious bottles requires the utmost caution, as the pearl coating can be easily worn off, diminishing both the aesthetic appeal and the monetary value of the piece. It's a delicate balance between preserving the beauty of the bottle and maintaining its integrity for future generations to admire.
Another aspect to consider is the tiny glass stoppers that seal these bottles. Often, these stoppers become frozen in place over time, cemented by the residue of the precious perfume they once held. Attempting to forcefully remove them can result in irreparable damage, as the fragile glass is prone to breakage. In such cases, it's often advisable to leave the stoppers undisturbed, preserving the bottle in its original state as much as possible.
These intricacies add to the allure and mystique surrounding La Route d'Emeraude and its iconic bottles, serving as a reminder of the craftsmanship and attention to detail that defined luxury in the 1920s. Each imperfection tells a story, enriching the experience of owning and appreciating these timeless treasures of the past.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Despite its exquisite design and luxurious appeal, La Route d'Emeraude was discontinued sometime in the 1930s. The perfume remains a treasured piece for collectors and enthusiasts, a testament to the artistry and elegance of the early 20th century.
2012 Reformulation & Relaunch:
In 2012, Isabey released a modern interpretation of La Route d'Emeraude, crafted by perfumer Jean Jacques and designer Rania Naim. This contemporary version borrows its name from the original 1920s perfume, drawing inspiration from journeys to the emerald triangle of Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia. This modern rendition aims to capture the exotic allure and rich history of the regions famed for their emeralds, much like the ancient trade routes that once transported precious gemstones and luxurious goods across vast distances.
La Route d'Emeraude, first launched in 1924, was a reflection of the opulence and fascination with exoticism that characterized the Roaring Twenties. This period was marked by significant economic prosperity and cultural dynamism, particularly in Europe and the United States. The original fragrance, created by Isabey's chief perfumer Robert Bienaimé, was housed in a stunning bottle designed by Julien Viard. Viard's design featured clear and frosted crystal, molded with a band of putti and garlands, and accented with grey patina, making it a luxurious artifact of its time.
Jean Jacques and Rania Naim's reinterpretation of La Route d'Emeraude in 2012 aimed to revive the timeless elegance of the original while infusing it with a modern sensibility. The new version pays homage to the original's luxurious and exotic character by drawing inspiration from the emerald triangle of Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia. This region is known for its lush landscapes and rich cultural heritage, evoking the mystery and allure that the original fragrance embodied.
The modern La Route d'Emeraude retains the sophisticated blend of floral and oriental notes but is likely crafted to appeal to contemporary tastes, balancing tradition with modernity. The reinterpretation serves as a bridge between the past and the present, celebrating the enduring legacy of Isabey and the timeless fascination with exotic journeys and luxurious experiences.
You can still purchase this fragrance at Parfums Isabey's website.
Fragrance Composition:
- Top notes: bergamot, rose oil and cinnamon.
- Middle notes: Sambac jasmine, Moroccan jasmine absolute, orange blossom and tuberose.
- Base notes: amber, vanilla, benzoin and musk
I received samples directly from Panouge to complete this article on the modern fragrances La Route d'Emeraude and Perle de La Route d'Emeraude. All opinions expressed are my own. Upon trying the fragrance, I was pleasantly surprised by its vintage essence. The perfumer has skillfully reimagined a long-forgotten scent, blending it into a harmonious composition. Upon application, I experienced an initial burst of lively bergamot, followed by the warm embrace of cinnamon-dusted rose petals. Subsequently, a rich bouquet of white florals unfolds, with the inclusion of both Sambac and Moroccan jasmine lending their unique nuances to the heart of the fragrance. This combination creates a sharp yet verdant note that complements the lingering freshness of bergamot, leading to a deeply sensual core. The presence of voluptuous tuberose, enhanced by the sweetness of orange blossom, evokes a sense of opulent indulgence. Finally, the fragrance evolves into a captivating drydown, revealing a base of precious ambergris and musk, enveloped in the comforting embrace of balsamic benzoin and dreamy vanilla.
Bottle:
The 2012 edition of the bottle represents a contemporary reimagining of Julien Viard's vintage masterpiece. Housed within a buttery yellow presentation box reminiscent of French doors, it opens to reveal the modernized bottle. The box is adorned with a pattern reminiscent of the original design, seamlessly blending tradition with innovation.
2017 Repackaging:
In 2017, the bottle for La Route d'Emeraude Eau de Parfum underwent a transformation, merging modern design elements with the vintage charm of a 1920s Isabey bottle originally crafted by Czech master glass artisan Ludwig Moser. While details on any potential adjustments to the fragrance remain unconfirmed, the updated bottle design reflects a harmonious blend of contemporary aesthetics and the timeless elegance of the original craftsmanship. You can purchase the 50ml flacon directly from Parfums Isabey's website. A 10ml travel flacon of the eau de parfum was also released which is great for carrying in your handbag.
From Isabey:
"The storyIntroduced in 1924, “La Route d’Emeraude” – The road to the Emerald Triangle from Isabey was designed by Julien Viard, in a faceted bottle and a jewel-like case, reminiscent of the splendor of the Far East. This perfume is inspired, with a touch of nostalgia, by the journey leading to the “Emerald Triangle” (Thailand, Laos and Cambodia), filled with the scents of Jasmine Sambac and blooming flowers. Many Orient lovers took the path to these faraway lands and experienced sensations that are recaptured in this re-edition of the mythical perfume. Gold leather (cordovan) effect, distinctive of The Emerald Road previous designs, has been preserved. The fragrance has been slightly changed.
The FragranceThe Emerald Road explores the different facets of Sambac Jasmine, bewitching and opulent. Begin this experience and feel the sparkling freshness of Bergamot spiced by Cinnamon and softened by Rose essence, unveiling a flamboyant floral bouquet. The Sambac jasmine, opulent and seductive, is composing with the Orange flower and Tuberose, a seductive harmony of powerful white flowers, enriched with Ylang Ylang. Adorned with precious notes of Amber, Benzoin, Vanilla and Musk, this scented jewel leaves a unique and enveloping trail."
Perle de La Route d'Emeraude:
In 2014, Isabey unveiled a limited edition extrait for La Route d'Emeraude, christened as Perle de La Route d'Emeraude. Encased in a 50 ml round natural spray flacon, reminiscent of the iconic 1924 "perle" designed flacon, this fragrance exudes a sense of timeless elegance. However, instead of the pearly nacre adorning the original 1920s bottles, La Route d'Emeraude finds its home within an opaque gilded glass flacon, adding a touch of modern sophistication.
The presentation box further enhances the luxurious experience, enveloped in apricot-colored leather and lined with rose gold satin. This meticulous attention to detail sets the stage for the unveiling of Perle de La Route d'Emeraude, elevating the entire olfactory journey.
You can still purchase this directly from Parfum Isabey's website.
- Top notes: cinnamon, orange blossom absolute, bergamot
- Middle notes: iris, tuberose, jasmine essence, rose essence, ylang ylang essence
- Base notes: musk, tonka bean, vanilla, benzoin, amber
Here are my thoughts on Perle de La Route d'Emeraude:
This fragrance presents a richer, more intense interpretation of its predecessor. Upon application, a lavish cascade of fresh petals greets the senses. The masterful blending of honeyed orange blossoms with jasmine reminiscent of bubblegum creates a captivating opening. Fruity ylang ylang adds a hint of ripe tropical banana, while vibrant bergamot lends a touch of lightness to the weighty white floral accord. A subtle interplay of green rose and irises adds depth and complexity to the bouquet. The addition of cinnamon introduces a lively contrast to the slightly sweet composition.
As the fragrance evolves, a deep, ambery base emerges, revealing a harmonious blend of benzoin and vanilla, imbued with a balsamic quality. This luxurious foundation is layered over a powdery, musky base, enhancing the fragrance's allure and sophistication.
Perle de La Route d'Emeraude is ideally suited for intimate evenings, inviting closer inspection with its elegantly restrained projection. Its captivating aroma entices the senses, making it a perfect choice for those seeking a refined and enchanting olfactory experience.
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