Fleur Nocturne by Isabey c2009

"Fleur Nocturne," translated into English, means "Nocturnal Flower." Parfums Isabey's choice of this name likely reflects the mysterious and enchanting qualities associated with flowers that bloom at night. The name evokes an image of a flower that awakens under the moonlight, suggesting a sense of allure and magic. Such a name is fitting for a perfume, as it conjures an atmosphere of elegance and sophistication, traits desirable in a fragrance that aims to captivate and enchant.

The period around 2009, when "Fleur Nocturne" was launched, saw a resurgence in the appreciation for niche and boutique perfumes. Consumers were increasingly drawn to fragrances with unique stories, complex compositions, and a sense of exclusivity. This modern formulation, created by Rania Naim, is based on the 1925 Isabey perfume Bleu de Chine, originally crafted by perfumer Jean Jacques. The revival of this classic scent speaks to a longing for timeless elegance and a connection to the rich heritage of perfumery.

Nocturnal flowers, such as jasmine, tuberose, and gardenia, are often used in perfumery for their intense and heady aromas that become more pronounced during the evening hours. Jasmine, known for its rich and sweet scent, is a staple in many luxurious perfumes. Tuberose, with its creamy and narcotic fragrance, adds depth and sensuality to a composition. Gardenia, offering a lush and velvety scent, provides a touch of opulence and sophistication.

A perfume named "Fleur Nocturne" would resonate with individuals who appreciate the beauty and mystery of the night. It would appeal to those who are drawn to the romantic and ethereal qualities of nocturnal blooms. They might respond to this perfume with a sense of wonder and admiration, finding it both captivating and comforting. The scent would evoke images of moonlit gardens, where the night air is filled with the intoxicating fragrance of blooming flowers, creating an atmosphere of tranquility and enchantment.

The name "Fleur Nocturne" evokes emotions of mystery, romance, and elegance. It conjures images of a serene, starlit night, with the moon casting a gentle glow over a garden in full bloom. The air is filled with the heady and seductive scents of flowers that have come to life under the cover of darkness. This evokes a sense of peace and introspection, as well as a feeling of being enveloped in a luxurious and magical embrace.

In essence, "Fleur Nocturne" is a name that encapsulates the allure and charm of nighttime blossoms. It appeals to those who seek a fragrance that is both sophisticated and enchanting, one that transports them to a world of nocturnal beauty and serenity.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: solar notes, mandarin, white peach and apricot blossom 
• Middle notes: jasmine, gardenia and magnolia
• Base notes: patchouli and vanilla

Scent Profile:

The fragrance is classified as a floral chypre, a category known for its blend of bright, fresh top notes, rich floral heart, and a base of earthy, mossy, and sweet accords. This perfume unfolds with a radiant bouquet of top notes, where the warmth of solar notes mingles with the citrusy zest of mandarin. The addition of white peach and apricot blossom adds a delicate, fruity sweetness that balances the initial burst of sunshine and citrus. Together, these notes create a luminous and inviting opening that sets the stage for the floral heart of the fragrance.

In the middle notes, the perfume blooms with a lush and opulent floral arrangement. Jasmine, with its rich and intoxicating scent, provides a sensual depth that is beautifully complemented by the creamy, sweet fragrance of gardenia. Magnolia adds a fresh and slightly citrusy floral touch, enhancing the complexity of the heart notes. This combination of jasmine, gardenia, and magnolia creates a harmonious and sophisticated floral core, exuding elegance and femininity.

The base notes of the fragrance provide a grounding and long-lasting foundation. Patchouli offers an earthy, woody richness that is characteristic of chypre fragrances, adding a sense of depth and complexity. Vanilla, with its warm and sweet aroma, softens the composition, lending a comforting and slightly gourmand quality. Together, patchouli and vanilla create a balanced and enduring base that lingers on the skin, leaving a memorable and captivating trail.

Overall, this floral chypre fragrance is a masterful blend of luminous top notes, opulent floral heart, and a rich, grounding base. It exudes elegance and sophistication, making it a timeless and versatile choice for women who appreciate a fragrance that is both radiant and complex.

Bottles:

The 2009 version of "Fleur Nocturne" by Isabey was presented in a visually striking and elegant manner, befitting the luxurious nature of the perfume. The fragrance was contained in a sophisticated blue cylindrical flacon. This design choice of a cylindrical shape provided a modern yet timeless appeal, aligning with the heritage of the original 1925 perfume while introducing a contemporary touch. The blue color of the flacon was likely chosen to evoke the serene and mysterious qualities of the night sky, reinforcing the nocturnal theme of the fragrance.

The flacon itself was both an aesthetic delight and a functional piece, designed to protect and dispense the precious liquid within. The deep blue hue of the bottle not only conveyed a sense of elegance and refinement but also hinted at the rich and opulent nature of the perfume. The cylindrical shape was sleek and easy to handle, adding to the overall user experience. It was a design that balanced beauty with practicality, ensuring that the perfume could be displayed proudly on a vanity or dresser.

Accompanying the flacon was a blue presentation box, thoughtfully designed with a drop front. This box was more than just packaging; it was an integral part of the perfume’s presentation, enhancing the overall luxurious experience. The drop front feature allowed for an elegant unveiling of the flacon, adding an element of anticipation and excitement to the act of using the perfume. The box’s blue color matched the flacon, creating a cohesive and visually appealing package that was as beautiful to behold as the fragrance was to wear.

The packaging design of "Fleur Nocturne" reflected the brand’s commitment to quality and attention to detail. The 50 ml Eau de Parfum was perfectly sized for both travel and everyday use, providing a generous amount of fragrance while maintaining a compact and convenient form. The combination of the blue cylindrical flacon and the blue presentation box created an exquisite package that spoke to the perfume’s elegance and allure.

Overall, the 2009 presentation of "Fleur Nocturne" was a harmonious blend of classic and modern elements. It honored the original heritage of the 1925 perfume while presenting it in a way that was relevant and appealing to contemporary tastes. This thoughtful and sophisticated packaging not only protected the fragrance but also enhanced its story, making the experience of using "Fleur Nocturne" a true delight for the senses.

2017 Repackaging:

In 2017, the "Fleur Nocturne" Eau de Parfum bottle underwent a significant and elegant transformation. Parfums Isabey skillfully blended modern design elements with the heritage of a 1920s Isabey bottle, originally crafted by the esteemed Czech master glass craftsman, Ludwig Moser. This updated bottle design was a tribute to the brand's rich history while embracing contemporary aesthetics, resulting in a flacon that exuded both timeless beauty and modern sophistication.

The updated flacon was a testament to Ludwig Moser's legacy of exceptional glass craftsmanship. Known for his intricate and luxurious designs, Moser's influence was evident in the refined and elegant silhouette of the new bottle. The design featured clean, geometric lines that echoed the Art Deco style of the 1920s, yet it was infused with a contemporary twist to appeal to modern sensibilities. The glass itself was of the highest quality, clear and flawless, allowing the rich, golden hue of the perfume to be showcased beautifully. This redesign not only enhanced the visual appeal of "Fleur Nocturne" but also reinforced the brand's dedication to artisanal excellence and historical homage.

Around this time, the fragrance itself may have undergone a reformulation to comply with the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) restrictions on certain ingredients. These restrictions are in place to ensure the safety and sustainability of fragrance components. As a result, some reviewers have noted a slight difference in the scent compared to earlier versions. This reformulation, while necessary for regulatory compliance, aimed to preserve the essence and character of the original fragrance as closely as possible.

The potential changes in the scent were subtle but noticeable to discerning noses. Some enthusiasts mentioned that the updated version had a slightly softer or less intense aroma, reflecting the adjustments made to meet IFRA guidelines. Despite these changes, the core identity of "Fleur Nocturne" remained intact, continuing to captivate with its luxurious and enchanting floral composition.

This careful balance between adhering to modern safety standards and maintaining the integrity of the fragrance is a testament to Parfums Isabey's commitment to quality and authenticity. The 2017 update, both in terms of bottle design and potential reformulation, exemplified the brand's ability to honor its historical roots while evolving with contemporary needs and regulations. "Fleur Nocturne" continued to embody the allure and mystery of nocturnal blooms, now presented in a bottle that seamlessly merged the past with the present, making it a cherished addition to any perfume collection.

 You can purchase the 50ml flacon directly from Parfums Isabey's website. A 10ml travel flacon of the eau de parfum was also released which is great for carrying in your handbag.