In 1944, the world was engulfed in the chaos and uncertainty of World War II. Against the backdrop of global conflict, the launch of Tendre Nuits by Isabey brought a glimmer of hope and romance to the hearts of many. As women found themselves at home, their sweethearts deployed far away on the battlefields, the scent of Tendre Nuits offered a delicate reminder of tender moments shared in the embrace of loved ones.
In the quiet solitude of their homes, women longed for the touch and presence of their beloveds, yearning for the warmth of romance amidst the cold realities of war. Tendre Nuits became a symbol of resilience and enduring love, a fragrant tribute to the enduring spirit of those separated by distance but united in heart.
The fragrance itself likely evoked notes of soft florals, perhaps jasmine or rose, mingling with hints of warm spices and woody undertones. Each spritz carried with it a whisper of passion and longing, a bittersweet reminder of the fleeting nature of time and the enduring power of love.
In the midst of darkness and uncertainty, Tendre Nuits by Isabey illuminated the hearts of those who wore it, a fragrant beacon of hope and affection in a world torn apart by war.
Fragrance Composition;
So what does it smell like? I have no notes on this composition, however, based on its name, the style of perfumes of the period and the recreated version, I have compiled a possible fragrance profile:
It is classified as a soft floral oriental fragrance for women.
- Top notes: bergamot, aldehydes, neroli
- Middle notes: heliotrope, cinnamon, rose, jasmine, gardenia, ylang ylang
- Base notes: vanilla, ambergris, benzoin, sandalwood, musk, oakmoss, tonka bean, vetiver
Proposed Scent Profile:
As the evening breeze gently caresses my skin, I catch the first delicate whispers of bergamot dancing in the air. Its citrusy freshness is softened by the warmth of the night, creating a subtle yet invigorating sensation that awakens my senses. The bergamot seems to shimmer like moonlight, casting a serene glow over the tender night unfolding before me. Alongside it, the aldehydes add a touch of effervescence, like sparkling stars adorning the velvet sky, enhancing the air of sophistication and elegance.
As I continue to breathe in the fragrant embrace of the evening, the scent of neroli begins to unfurl like a delicate blossom under the moonlight. Its sweet, floral aroma envelops me in a gentle embrace, evoking a sense of tranquility and serenity. Each breath feels like a soft sigh of contentment, as the neroli whispers of love and longing in the tender night air. It is a fragrance of quiet beauty, inviting me to immerse myself fully in the moment, lost in its intoxicating charm.
Moving deeper into the heart of the perfume, I am greeted by the enchanting notes of heliotrope and cinnamon, their warm and spicy embrace reminiscent of a lover's touch. The heliotrope unfolds like a velvet petal, its powdery sweetness mingling with the comforting warmth of cinnamon, creating an aura of sensual allure. Amidst this intoxicating blend, the floral symphony of rose, jasmine, gardenia, and ylang-ylang begins to bloom, each note adding its own unique melody to the tender night's song. The roses whisper of romance, the jasmine of passion, the gardenia of innocence, and the ylang-ylang of exotic sensuality, weaving together a tapestry of emotions that captivates the heart.
As the night deepens and the stars above begin to twinkle with greater intensity, the base notes of vanilla, ambergris, benzoin, sandalwood, musk, oakmoss, tonka bean, and vetiver emerge like the earthy embrace of a lover. The vanilla envelops me in its warm, sweet embrace, while the ambergris adds a touch of mystery and intrigue. The benzoin infuses the air with its resinous warmth, blending seamlessly with the creamy richness of sandalwood and the animalic allure of musk. Oakmoss lends a whisper of earthy freshness, while tonka bean adds a subtle hint of sweetness. And finally, vetiver grounds the fragrance with its smoky, woody aroma, anchoring me to the present moment even as my senses soar on the wings of desire.
Together, these individual ingredients combine to create a soft floral oriental fragrance for women that is as tender and captivating as the night itself. It is a scent that speaks of love, longing, and the timeless beauty of the feminine spirit, inviting me to lose myself in its embrace and surrender to the magic of the moment.
Bottles:
Tendres Nuits was presented in a slender, transparent glass bottle featuring a flat, frosted glass stopper—a marked departure from Isabey's previous opulent and elaborate bottle designs. This shift was primarily driven by the escalating production costs of the older styled bottles. The economic downturn of the Great Depression compelled numerous perfume brands, including Isabey, to streamline their packaging and adopt more cost-effective solutions. Consequently, Isabey transitioned to a simpler and more affordable flacon design, which soon became the standard for the brand throughout the 1930s and into the 1940s.
In response to this shift, Isabey took proactive measures to manage its inventory. The remaining inventory of the luxurious bottles was meticulously filled, boxed, and offered to retailers at reduced prices. These retailers subsequently initiated clearance sales, making the old stock available to consumers at significantly discounted rates—sometimes as much as half price or less. This strategic move allowed Isabey to adapt to changing market dynamics while continuing to provide its clientele with exquisite fragrances in a more accessible manner.
Fate of the Fragrance:
The name "Tendres Nuits" was filed by Isabey for US trademark in 1944. I believe it was withdrawn soon after production. A competitor, Lancome, released their perfume, Tendres Nuits in 1935. During WWII, importations of Lancome fragrances such as Tropiques, Tendres Nuit, Fleches, Cuir, Conquete, Bocages, Peut Etre, and Kypre were halted and did not return to US soil until 1946.
It appears there was a notable overlap and perhaps some confusion regarding the trademark filing for "Tendres Nuits" by Isabey in 1944, especially considering Lancôme's earlier release of a perfume under the same name in 1935. This timing suggests a potential challenge in establishing exclusive rights to the name "Tendres Nuits" in the United States.
The interruption of importations of Lancôme fragrances, including "Tendres Nuits," to the US during World War II further complicates the landscape. These import restrictions likely impacted the availability and competition of fragrances in the American market during that time period.
Given these circumstances, it's plausible that Isabey faced difficulties in securing the trademark for "Tendres Nuits" in the US, potentially leading to the withdrawal of the filing after production.
The convergence of these events underscores the complexities and challenges faced by perfume brands during wartime, including issues related to trademarks, competition, and import regulations.
Revival of Tendres Nuits:
It's intriguing how fragrances from the past find new life in the present. Isabey's decision to revive the long-discontinued perfume under the name "Tendre Nuit" in 2018 likely aimed to pay homage to its heritage while captivating contemporary audiences with its timeless allure. This revival not only celebrates the legacy of the original scent but also offers a fresh interpretation for modern sensibilities. It's fascinating to witness how perfumes can transcend time, connecting different eras through the power of scent.
From Isabey:
"The Story: First created by Isabey Paris in 1944 in New York, Tendre Nuit (Tender night) is remembered for its romantic name, like a whisper. The poetic and flamboyant plum colour of the bottle combined with voluptuous night Rose and animal Ambrette seeds fragrance are inspired by emotions of a tender and passionate night. It is 3 am in Paris, she is sitting on the edge of her bed in a room filled by sensations. Love is floating in the air, sweet and sensual like a night Rose. A warm breeze from the balcony thru the room is caressing her skin. The night is tender, her life is a dream."
Fragrance Composition:
From Isabey:
"The Fragrance: A night of love and passion when the quintessence of femininity is revealed by an extraordinary swirl of Rose Oil and Absolute. Coupled with Ambroxan, the Queen of flowers is wrapped in an addictive mystery, and finally opens on the powdery drydown of Ambrette, for a caressing sensuality. The unforgettable fragrance of a desired and beloved skin."
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral amber fragrance for women.
- Top notes: almond, pink pepper
- Middle notes: rose oil, rose absolute, ambrette seeds
- Base notes: ambroxan, cashmeran, benzoin, vanilla Co2
The classification of "Tendre Nuit" as a floral amber fragrance for women suggests a blend of rich and sensual notes designed to evoke elegance and warmth.
In the top notes, the subtle sweetness of almond is complemented by the delicate spice of pink pepper, creating an inviting and intriguing opening.
Moving into the heart of the fragrance, the essence of rose unfolds in layers, combining the freshness of rose oil with the depth of rose absolute, while ambrette seeds add a touch of musky sophistication.
As the scent develops, the base notes provide a luxurious foundation, with ambroxan and cashmeran adding depth and complexity, balanced by the sweetness of benzoin and the comforting warmth of vanilla Co2.
Together, these notes harmonize to create a captivating olfactory journey, capturing the essence of tender nights in a timeless and alluring fragrance.
Bottles:
The packaging of Tendre Nuit Eau de Parfum is a harmonious blend of modern aesthetics and a nod to Isabey's rich heritage. The bottle design marries contemporary elegance with the timeless charm of a 1920s Isabey bottle, which was crafted by the renowned Czech master glass artisan, Ludwig Moser.
This fusion of old and new not only pays homage to Isabey's illustrious past but also infuses the fragrance with a sense of sophistication and refinement. The result is a stunning presentation that captures the essence of Tendre Nuit—timeless beauty encapsulated in a bottle that is as exquisite as the scent it holds.
You can purchase the
50ml flacon directly from Parfums Isabey's website. A
10ml travel flacon of the eau de parfum was also released which is great for carrying in your handbag.
