Chypre Celtique by Isabey c1924

"Chypre Celtique" by Isabey launched in 1924, a time marked by the roaring twenties, the Jazz Age, and significant cultural shifts following World War I. This era saw a rebellion against traditional values and an embrace of modernity and liberation, particularly in fashion and fragrance.

"Chypre" is a fragrance family that was popularized in the early 20th century with François Coty's creation of "Chypre" in 1917. The term "chypre" is derived from the French word for Cyprus, reflecting the Mediterranean island's association with fragrant herbs and woods. Chypre fragrances typically feature a base of oakmoss, labdanum, and patchouli, often combined with citrus and floral notes. They evoke a sense of sophistication, mystery, and elegance.

As for the connection to the Celts, it's less about a direct historical link and more about the romanticized perception of Celtic culture during the early 20th century. The Celts, an ancient Indo-European people, have long been associated with a sense of mystique, nature, and magic. Their cultural motifs often include symbols of nature, such as trees, animals, and intricate knotwork.

In the context of "Chypre Celtique," the name likely evokes a sense of exoticism and romanticism, conjuring images of the rugged beauty of Celtic landscapes and the mysterious allure of ancient Celtic traditions. The fragrance may seek to capture the essence of this imagined Celtic world through its composition, perhaps incorporating elements like earthy woods, aromatic herbs, and vibrant citrus notes to evoke the natural beauty and enchantment of Celtic mythology and folklore.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: petitgrain, bergamot, cassie,orange, geranium, verbena, neroli, limette
• Middle notes:  angelica, rose, jasmine, orris, tuberose, nutmeg, hyacinth, rosemary
• Base notes: castoreum, civet, ambergris, oakmoss, labdanum, musk, vanilla, tonka bean, sandalwood, patchouli, storax

Scent Profile:

As you step into the misty embrace of the Celtic forest, the air is crisp with the tang of salty ocean breeze mingled with the earthy scent of damp moss and ancient trees. The top notes of "Chypre Celtique" dance around you like wisps of fog, tantalizing your senses with their ethereal beauty. Petitgrain whispers of green leaves rustling in the wind, while bergamot and orange evoke the citrus groves that thrive at the forest's edge. Cassie and geranium add a floral sweetness, reminiscent of wild blooms hidden among the ferns, while neroli and limette lend their fresh, zesty aromas, like offerings to the spirits of the forest.

As you venture deeper into the heart of the woodland, the middle notes of the fragrance weave a tapestry of enchantment around you. Angelica and rosemary invoke the herbal wisdom of ancient Druids, their fragrant leaves crushed underfoot releasing an intoxicating scent. Jasmine and tuberose bloom in the shadows, their heady aromas mingling with the earthy spice of nutmeg and the delicate sweetness of orris. Hyacinth nods its graceful stems in approval, while the subtle warmth of rosemary adds a touch of magic to the air, as if invoking sacred rituals from centuries past.

Finally, as you reach the heart of the forest, the base notes of "Chypre Celtique" envelop you like a cloak of mystery. Castoreum and civet lend a primal sensuality to the fragrance, evoking the presence of ancient beasts prowling in the shadows. Ambergris whispers of treasures hidden beneath the waves, while oakmoss and labdanum anchor you to the earth, their resinous depths grounding you in the timeless wisdom of the forest. Musk and vanilla add a soft, comforting warmth, like the embrace of a loved one, while tonka bean and sandalwood lend their woody richness to the enchanting symphony. Patchouli weaves its spell, its earthy aroma mingling with the sacred smoke of storax, carrying your spirit into realms where magic reigns supreme.

Bottles:

In the opulent era of the 1920s, luxury was not merely about the fragrance itself but extended to the very presentation of the perfume. Chypre Celtique epitomized this ethos with its presentation in exquisite pearly bottles crafted by the esteemed designer Julien Viard. Each bottle was a masterpiece in its own right, reminiscent of the treasures coveted by the elite.

The allure began with the packaging itself – luxurious presentation boxes meticulously crafted by Maison Sorys. These boxes were no ordinary containers; they were encased in sumptuous purple leather, a color that symbolized royalty and extravagance. The leather was adorned with intricate gilded tracery, adding an extra touch of opulence. As one opened the box, the scent of wealth and sophistication wafted forth, enhanced by the sight within.

Inside, the interior of the box was a spectacle in its own right. Lined with a vivid hue of padded violet silk and velvet, it evoked images of the most precious jewelry cases. Each detail was carefully considered to elevate the experience of unveiling the fragrance to a moment of pure indulgence and decadence.

Nestled within this luxurious setting lay the pièce de résistance – the pearl-shaped flacon. Crafted with unparalleled skill by the artisans of Nesle Normandeuse Glassworks, these bottles were not just containers but objets d'art. Andre Jolivet's ingenious "laitance de hareng" pearlization technique bestowed upon them a lustrous sheen, reminiscent of the iridescence of pearls harvested from the depths of the ocean.

Together, the pearly bottles, adorned with gilded tracery, nestled within plush purple velvet, encapsulated the essence of luxury in the 1920s. They were not merely vessels for a scent but symbols of prestige and refinement, coveted by those who sought to surround themselves with the finest things in life.

The delicate nature of the pearl coating on Chypre Celtique's bottles adds an intriguing layer of history and vulnerability to these exquisite artifacts of luxury. Over the passage of time, it's not uncommon to discover antique bottles where much of the fragile pearl coating has gracefully worn away, revealing the clear glass beneath. This transformation speaks to the journey these bottles have undertaken, bearing witness to the years gone by.

However, this fragility also presents a challenge for collectors and enthusiasts. Cleaning these precious bottles requires the utmost caution, as the pearl coating can be easily worn off, diminishing both the aesthetic appeal and the monetary value of the piece. It's a delicate balance between preserving the beauty of the bottle and maintaining its integrity for future generations to admire.

Another aspect to consider is the tiny glass stoppers that seal these bottles. Often, these stoppers become frozen in place over time, cemented by the residue of the precious perfume they once held. Attempting to forcefully remove them can result in irreparable damage, as the fragile glass is prone to breakage. In such cases, it's often advisable to leave the stoppers undisturbed, preserving the bottle in its original state as much as possible.

These intricacies add to the allure and mystique surrounding Chypre Celtique and its iconic bottles, serving as a reminder of the craftsmanship and attention to detail that defined luxury in the 1920s. Each imperfection tells a story, enriching the experience of owning and appreciating these timeless treasures of the past.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The discontinuation of Chypre Celtique by Isabey adds another layer of intrigue to its story. Still sold in 1927. While the exact date of its discontinuation remains elusive, it further enhances the rarity and desirability of this perfume among collectors and enthusiasts. 

Isabey's perfumes faced a challenging end attributed to a combination of factors, notably the impact of the Great Depression and the onset of World War II. The economic strain of the Depression led to rising costs, affecting the availability of essential raw materials and supplies needed for perfume production. Additionally, wartime restrictions imposed constraints on importation, further complicating the production process for perfume makers like Isabey. The Nazi occupation of Paris during World War II also played a significant role, disrupting operations and preventing many perfume companies from maintaining their factories and premises.

The mystery surrounding its departure from the market only adds to its allure, leaving aficionados to speculate about the reasons behind its demise. Perhaps it was a casualty of changing tastes or shifting trends in the fragrance industry. Or maybe it was a strategic decision by the brand to focus on other offerings. Regardless of the circumstances, the discontinuation of Chypre Celtique only serves to elevate its status as a coveted relic of the past, cherished by those fortunate enough to possess a bottle.

In the world of perfumery, where scents come and go with the ebb and flow of consumer preferences, discontinued fragrances often acquire a cult-like following, with devotees searching far and wide to procure remaining bottles. The allure of owning a piece of olfactory history, no longer readily available on the market, adds an extra dimension of excitement for collectors.

While its production may have ceased, the legacy of Chypre Celtique lives on in the memories of those who were fortunate enough to experience its enchanting aroma and admire its exquisite packaging. And for those who continue to seek it out, its discontinuation only adds to the allure of this timeless fragrance from a bygone era.