The 1920s was a decade marked by significant cultural shifts and a heightened fascination in the West with the exoticism of the Orient. This period, often referred to as the "Roaring Twenties," was characterized by a spirit of liberation, exploration, and a keen interest in art, fashion, and literature. The West's fascination with the Orient was part of a broader trend of Orientalism, which romanticized and often misrepresented Eastern cultures. This fascination was reflected in various aspects of Western culture, from art and architecture to fashion and, notably, perfumery.
The name "Bleu de Chine" translates to "Blue of China" in English. This evocative name conjures images of the rich, vibrant blue tones associated with traditional Chinese ceramics and art. The color blue in Chinese culture often symbolizes immortality, healing, and tranquility. By choosing the name "Bleu de Chine," Parfums Isabey tapped into the allure and mystique of China, a land that represented a blend of ancient traditions and exotic splendor to Western audiences of the time.
"Bleu de Chine" is an ideal name for a perfume because it immediately transports the mind to a distant, captivating place. The name suggests a sense of luxury, depth, and sophistication, aligning perfectly with the qualities that many sought in a fine fragrance. The association with China hints at a blend of mysterious, exotic ingredients, creating an expectation of a unique and enchanting olfactory experience.
Individuals drawn to a perfume called "Bleu de Chine" in 1925 would likely have been those who embraced the era's fascination with the exotic and the sophisticated. These were people who appreciated art, culture, and the finer things in life. They would respond to this perfume with a sense of curiosity and excitement, eager to experience the essence of a land that symbolized beauty and mystery.
The words "Bleu de Chine" evoke images of serene landscapes, intricate porcelain vases, and the delicate brushstrokes of traditional Chinese paintings. The emotions stirred by this name include a sense of wonder, elegance, and tranquility. It brings to mind a world of timeless beauty and refined artistry, where every element is crafted with care and precision. For the wearer, "Bleu de Chine" would offer not just a fragrance, but an escape to an imagined realm of serene blue vistas and exquisite craftsmanship.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. Described as "rich with the essence of the lotus flower fragrance as it blooms in waxen beauty in Oriental rivers, its blossoms quivering in the dawn."
- Top notes: lotus, orange blossom, bergamot, cassie, neroli
- Middle notes: ylang ylang, rose, jasmine, tuberose, clove
- Base notes: ambergris, sandalwood, civet, vanilla, heliotrope, patchouli, benzoin
Scent Story:
Imagine stepping into the ethereal gardens of China at dawn, where the air is thick with the scent of blooming flowers and the promise of a new day. As you walk along the winding paths, the first aroma that greets you is the delicate fragrance of lotus flowers. Their petals, soft and waxen, float serenely on the surface of a tranquil river, quivering gently as the first light of dawn touches them. The scent is pure and watery, with a hint of sweet freshness that lingers in the air.
Next, your senses are awakened by the bright, citrusy notes of orange blossom and bergamot. The orange blossoms, with their white, star-like flowers, fill the garden with a heady, intoxicating fragrance that is both sweet and slightly bitter. The bergamot adds a zesty, tangy note, reminiscent of a fresh, juicy orange, cutting through the sweetness and adding a vibrant, energizing quality to the air.
As you continue to wander, the scent of cassie flowers begins to weave its way through the garden. These tiny, golden blooms exude a rich, honeyed aroma, with undertones of green and spicy notes that add depth and complexity. The neroli, derived from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, introduces a light, airy sweetness that is both floral and slightly herbaceous, blending harmoniously with the other scents.
Deeper into the garden, you come across a secluded grove where the mid-morning sun filters through the leaves, casting dappled shadows on the ground. Here, the heart of the garden reveals itself with the lush, exotic scent of ylang-ylang. Its flowers, shaped like delicate yellow stars, emit a heady, sweet fragrance with hints of creamy banana and narcotic jasmine. The rose bushes, heavy with dew-laden blossoms, fill the air with their classic, rich, and velvety scent, a timeless symbol of love and beauty.
Nearby, a cluster of jasmine vines cascades over a trellis, their tiny white flowers releasing an intensely sweet and seductive aroma that is both fresh and opulent. The tuberose, with its creamy white blooms, adds a voluptuous, buttery scent that is rich and slightly spicy. The air is then subtly spiced with the warm, aromatic note of clove, adding an unexpected twist to the floral symphony.
As the sun climbs higher in the sky, the base notes of the garden begin to emerge, grounding the ethereal florals with their deep, earthy richness. The sweet, resinous scent of ambergris mingles with the creamy, woody aroma of sandalwood, creating a sense of warmth and tranquility. The hint of civet adds an animalic, musky depth that is both intriguing and sensuous.
A touch of vanilla brings a sweet, comforting warmth, its creamy sweetness blending seamlessly with the powdery, almond-like scent of heliotrope. The patchouli, with its dark, earthy, and slightly camphorous aroma, adds a grounding, almost mystical quality. Finally, the balsamic, vanilla-like richness of benzoin wraps around you, leaving a lingering sense of warmth and contentment.
In the gardens of China, each fragrance note unfolds like a story, painting a vivid picture of a place where nature's beauty and complexity are celebrated in every bloom and every breath of air.
Next, your senses are awakened by the bright, citrusy notes of orange blossom and bergamot. The orange blossoms, with their white, star-like flowers, fill the garden with a heady, intoxicating fragrance that is both sweet and slightly bitter. The bergamot adds a zesty, tangy note, reminiscent of a fresh, juicy orange, cutting through the sweetness and adding a vibrant, energizing quality to the air.
As you continue to wander, the scent of cassie flowers begins to weave its way through the garden. These tiny, golden blooms exude a rich, honeyed aroma, with undertones of green and spicy notes that add depth and complexity. The neroli, derived from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, introduces a light, airy sweetness that is both floral and slightly herbaceous, blending harmoniously with the other scents.
Deeper into the garden, you come across a secluded grove where the mid-morning sun filters through the leaves, casting dappled shadows on the ground. Here, the heart of the garden reveals itself with the lush, exotic scent of ylang-ylang. Its flowers, shaped like delicate yellow stars, emit a heady, sweet fragrance with hints of creamy banana and narcotic jasmine. The rose bushes, heavy with dew-laden blossoms, fill the air with their classic, rich, and velvety scent, a timeless symbol of love and beauty.
Nearby, a cluster of jasmine vines cascades over a trellis, their tiny white flowers releasing an intensely sweet and seductive aroma that is both fresh and opulent. The tuberose, with its creamy white blooms, adds a voluptuous, buttery scent that is rich and slightly spicy. The air is then subtly spiced with the warm, aromatic note of clove, adding an unexpected twist to the floral symphony.
As the sun climbs higher in the sky, the base notes of the garden begin to emerge, grounding the ethereal florals with their deep, earthy richness. The sweet, resinous scent of ambergris mingles with the creamy, woody aroma of sandalwood, creating a sense of warmth and tranquility. The hint of civet adds an animalic, musky depth that is both intriguing and sensuous.
A touch of vanilla brings a sweet, comforting warmth, its creamy sweetness blending seamlessly with the powdery, almond-like scent of heliotrope. The patchouli, with its dark, earthy, and slightly camphorous aroma, adds a grounding, almost mystical quality. Finally, the balsamic, vanilla-like richness of benzoin wraps around you, leaving a lingering sense of warmth and contentment.
In the gardens of China, each fragrance note unfolds like a story, painting a vivid picture of a place where nature's beauty and complexity are celebrated in every bloom and every breath of air.
Bottles:
Bottle by Julien Viard:
Bleu de Chine, an epitome of 1920s luxury, was encased in a bottle designed by the renowned Julien Viard. This exquisite bottle stood at 2.75 inches tall, crafted from a delicate blend of clear and frosted glass. Its sides were molded with intricate floral patterns, brought to life with a touch of blue patina, and further highlighted with turquoise blue and coral red enamel details. Each element of the bottle’s design spoke of an era where craftsmanship and artistic expression were paramount.
The presentation of Bleu de Chine extended beyond the bottle itself. It was housed in a handsome presentation case that featured an image of a Chinese man on the front cover, evoking a sense of exotic allure and mystery. Opening the case revealed an interior lined with luxurious blue silk, a perfect complement to the bottle’s refined elegance. The case added a layer of sophistication, making it not just a perfume but a cherished piece of art.
A 1920s advertisement vividly described Bleu de Chine as being "packed in a daisy box, the daisies painted on a box as blue as the sky, and carved on the exotic bottle [holding about 1/2 ounce of parfum]." This description painted a picture of a product that was as delightful to behold as it was to wear, capturing the essence of beauty and elegance in every detail.
Another advertisement highlighted the availability of a larger 1 2/3 ounce bottle, described as a "fascinating forget-me-not bottle, gorgeous for any dressing table." This larger version maintained the same enchanting design elements, offering a more substantial presence. The forget-me-not bottle, with its intricate floral designs and harmonious blend of colors, was a stunning addition to any dressing table, a true symbol of the era's opulence and attention to detail.
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Bottle by Ludwig Moser:
Bleu de Chine, a testament to the luxurious elegance of the 1920s, was also presented in a stunning five-piece set crafted by the renowned Ludwig Moser of Bohemia. These bottles, lozenge-shaped and available in either cobalt or amethyst crystal, exuded a sense of regal sophistication. Each bottle was accented with intricate silver overlay on the corners, adding a touch of opulence and highlighting the exquisite craftsmanship for which Moser was celebrated.
The top of the lozenge-shaped crystal stopper bore the name Isabey, stenciled in silver enamel, a detail that signified both quality and prestige. This elegant touch ensured that the identity of the perfume’s maker was prominently displayed, enhancing the overall allure of the presentation. The base of the bottle was engraved with "Moser, Karlovy Vary," further authenticating its origin and the high standards of Bohemian glassmaking.
These bottles were not limited to containing only Bleu de Chine; they may have been used for more than one perfume by Isabey, showcasing their versatility and the timeless nature of their design. Dating back to the 1920s, this five-piece set encapsulated the era’s fascination with luxury and artistry, making it a prized possession for any perfume connoisseur. The combination of rich cobalt or amethyst crystal with silver accents created a visual masterpiece that was both elegant and enduring, a perfect representation of Isabey’s dedication to beauty and refinement.
signed Moser Karlovy Vary.
Perle Flacons:
Dubbed "Perle Flacons" by Isabey, these containers were described as "rich purple and gold packages, assorted odors packed in a pearl bottle that looks like a gleaming bubble in the sun." They came in three sizes to cater to different preferences and needs: 1/2 ounce, 1 ounce, and 2 ounces. This collection not only showcased Isabey’s commitment to artistic presentation but also reflected the era’s fascination with luxurious and innovative packaging for perfumes. The Perle flacons remain a testament to Isabey’s early success and their contribution to the artistry of perfume presentation during the Roaring Twenties.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued around 1938, Isabey's perfumes faced a challenging end attributed to a combination of factors, notably the impact of the Great Depression and the onset of World War II. The economic strain of the Depression led to rising costs, affecting the availability of essential raw materials and supplies needed for perfume production. Additionally, wartime restrictions imposed constraints on importation, further complicating the production process for perfume makers like Isabey. The Nazi occupation of Paris during World War II also played a significant role, disrupting operations and preventing many perfume companies from maintaining their factories and premises. These collective pressures culminated in the discontinuation of Isabey's perfumes, marking the end of an era defined by both economic hardship and geopolitical turmoil.
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