Chypre Celtique by Isabey c1924

"Chypre Celtique" by Isabey launched in 1924, a time marked by the roaring twenties, the Jazz Age, and significant cultural shifts following World War I. This era saw a rebellion against traditional values and an embrace of modernity and liberation, particularly in fashion and fragrance.

"Chypre" is a fragrance family that was popularized in the early 20th century with François Coty's creation of "Chypre" in 1917. The term "chypre" is derived from the French word for Cyprus, reflecting the Mediterranean island's association with fragrant herbs and woods. Chypre fragrances typically feature a base of oakmoss, labdanum, and patchouli, often combined with citrus and floral notes. They evoke a sense of sophistication, mystery, and elegance.

As for the connection to the Celts, it's less about a direct historical link and more about the romanticized perception of Celtic culture during the early 20th century. The Celts, an ancient Indo-European people, have long been associated with a sense of mystique, nature, and magic. Their cultural motifs often include symbols of nature, such as trees, animals, and intricate knotwork.

In the context of "Chypre Celtique," the name likely evokes a sense of exoticism and romanticism, conjuring images of the rugged beauty of Celtic landscapes and the mysterious allure of ancient Celtic traditions. The fragrance may seek to capture the essence of this imagined Celtic world through its composition, perhaps incorporating elements like earthy woods, aromatic herbs, and vibrant citrus notes to evoke the natural beauty and enchantment of Celtic mythology and folklore.

Le Lys Noir by Isabey c1924

Le Lys Noir by Isabey: launched in 1924. It was created by perfume Jean Jacques.

Prends Moi by Isabey c1930s

Prends Moi by Isabey was launched in the late 1920s or early 1930s. It had a misspelling on its label, "Prends-Mois," probably due to the fact that another company, De Raymond, already had a perfume named Prends-Moi in 1930. The name Prends-Moi means "take me" in French.  

In the 1930 ad below, you can see the De Raymond Prends Moi fragrance.

Avant et Apres by Isabey c1932

Avant et Apres by Isabey: launched around 1932. the name means "Before and After" in French. 

Bleu de Chine c1925

The 1920s was a decade marked by significant cultural shifts and a heightened fascination in the West with the exoticism of the Orient. This period, often referred to as the "Roaring Twenties," was characterized by a spirit of liberation, exploration, and a keen interest in art, fashion, and literature. The West's fascination with the Orient was part of a broader trend of Orientalism, which romanticized and often misrepresented Eastern cultures. This fascination was reflected in various aspects of Western culture, from art and architecture to fashion and, notably, perfumery.

The name "Bleu de Chine" translates to "Blue of China" in English. This evocative name conjures images of the rich, vibrant blue tones associated with traditional Chinese ceramics and art. The color blue in Chinese culture often symbolizes immortality, healing, and tranquility. By choosing the name "Bleu de Chine," Parfums Isabey tapped into the allure and mystique of China, a land that represented a blend of ancient traditions and exotic splendor to Western audiences of the time.

"Bleu de Chine" is an ideal name for a perfume because it immediately transports the mind to a distant, captivating place. The name suggests a sense of luxury, depth, and sophistication, aligning perfectly with the qualities that many sought in a fine fragrance. The association with China hints at a blend of mysterious, exotic ingredients, creating an expectation of a unique and enchanting olfactory experience.

Gardenia by Isabey c1926

Gardenia by Isabey: launched in 1926. The perfume was created by Jean Jacques.

Le Parfum de Sacha Guitry c1929

The launch of "Le Parfum de Sacha Guitry" by Isabey in 1929 occurred during a fascinating time in history marked by the Roaring Twenties transitioning into the Great Depression. This era was characterized by significant social and cultural shifts, particularly in the realms of art, fashion, and entertainment.

Sacha Guitry, the muse for this perfume, was a prominent figure in the artistic and theatrical circles of the time. As an actor, playwright, and director, Guitry was known for his wit, charm, and sophistication. His contributions to French cinema and theater made him a celebrated figure, admired by both the elite and the public.

The choice of Guitry as a muse for the perfume reflects the allure and glamour associated with the world of theater and cinema during the interwar period. Perfume played a significant role in the fashion and beauty culture of the time, serving as a symbol of elegance, sensuality, and luxury.

The quote attributed to Guitry, "Two things make women unforgettable, their tears & their perfume," captures the sentiment of the era, emphasizing the power of scent to evoke emotion and leave a lasting impression.

Although in the book Femmes de Papier, the author has noted that Jean Desprez was the regular perfumer for Sacha Guitry. The mention of Jean Desprez, the creator of the famous Bal à Versailles perfume, adds another layer to the story. Desprez's involvement suggests the close relationship between Guitry and the world of perfumery, further highlighting the intersection of art, celebrity, and commerce during this period.

Vanity Fair, 1931:

"Is Sacha Guitry a perfume or an actor or a playwright or all three?"

The Vanity Fair quote from 1931 reflects the multifaceted nature of Guitry's talent and persona, blurring the lines between his roles as an actor, playwright, and cultural icon. In many ways, Guitry embodied the spirit of the times, blending creativity, sophistication, and a hint of mystery.

Overall, the launch of "Le Parfum de Sacha Guitry" by Isabey in 1929 captures the essence of an era defined by artistic innovation, cultural dynamism, and the enduring allure of celebrity.

"Two things make women unforgettable, their tears & their perfume" -Sacha Guitry

Fleur Nocturne by Isabey c2009

"Fleur Nocturne," translated into English, means "Nocturnal Flower." Parfums Isabey's choice of this name likely reflects the mysterious and enchanting qualities associated with flowers that bloom at night. The name evokes an image of a flower that awakens under the moonlight, suggesting a sense of allure and magic. Such a name is fitting for a perfume, as it conjures an atmosphere of elegance and sophistication, traits desirable in a fragrance that aims to captivate and enchant.

The period around 2009, when "Fleur Nocturne" was launched, saw a resurgence in the appreciation for niche and boutique perfumes. Consumers were increasingly drawn to fragrances with unique stories, complex compositions, and a sense of exclusivity. This modern formulation, created by Rania Naim, is based on the 1925 Isabey perfume Bleu de Chine, originally crafted by perfumer Jean Jacques. The revival of this classic scent speaks to a longing for timeless elegance and a connection to the rich heritage of perfumery.

Nocturnal flowers, such as jasmine, tuberose, and gardenia, are often used in perfumery for their intense and heady aromas that become more pronounced during the evening hours. Jasmine, known for its rich and sweet scent, is a staple in many luxurious perfumes. Tuberose, with its creamy and narcotic fragrance, adds depth and sensuality to a composition. Gardenia, offering a lush and velvety scent, provides a touch of opulence and sophistication.

A perfume named "Fleur Nocturne" would resonate with individuals who appreciate the beauty and mystery of the night. It would appeal to those who are drawn to the romantic and ethereal qualities of nocturnal blooms. They might respond to this perfume with a sense of wonder and admiration, finding it both captivating and comforting. The scent would evoke images of moonlit gardens, where the night air is filled with the intoxicating fragrance of blooming flowers, creating an atmosphere of tranquility and enchantment.

Tendre Nuits by Isabey c1944

In 1944, the world was engulfed in the chaos and uncertainty of World War II. Against the backdrop of global conflict, the launch of Tendre Nuits by Isabey brought a glimmer of hope and romance to the hearts of many. As women found themselves at home, their sweethearts deployed far away on the battlefields, the scent of Tendre Nuits offered a delicate reminder of tender moments shared in the embrace of loved ones.

In the quiet solitude of their homes, women longed for the touch and presence of their beloveds, yearning for the warmth of romance amidst the cold realities of war. Tendre Nuits became a symbol of resilience and enduring love, a fragrant tribute to the enduring spirit of those separated by distance but united in heart.

The fragrance itself likely evoked notes of soft florals, perhaps jasmine or rose, mingling with hints of warm spices and woody undertones. Each spritz carried with it a whisper of passion and longing, a bittersweet reminder of the fleeting nature of time and the enduring power of love.

In the midst of darkness and uncertainty, Tendre Nuits by Isabey illuminated the hearts of those who wore it, a fragrant beacon of hope and affection in a world torn apart by war.

Fragrance Composition;

So what does it smell like? I have no notes on this composition, however, based on its name, the style of perfumes of the period and the recreated version, I have compiled a possible fragrance profile:

It is classified as a soft floral oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, aldehydes, neroli
• Middle notes: heliotrope, cinnamon, rose, jasmine, gardenia, ylang ylang
• Base notes: vanilla, ambergris, benzoin, sandalwood, musk, oakmoss, tonka bean, vetiver

Proposed Scent Profile:

As the evening breeze gently caresses my skin, I catch the first delicate whispers of bergamot dancing in the air. Its citrusy freshness is softened by the warmth of the night, creating a subtle yet invigorating sensation that awakens my senses. The bergamot seems to shimmer like moonlight, casting a serene glow over the tender night unfolding before me. Alongside it, the aldehydes add a touch of effervescence, like sparkling stars adorning the velvet sky, enhancing the air of sophistication and elegance.

As I continue to breathe in the fragrant embrace of the evening, the scent of neroli begins to unfurl like a delicate blossom under the moonlight. Its sweet, floral aroma envelops me in a gentle embrace, evoking a sense of tranquility and serenity. Each breath feels like a soft sigh of contentment, as the neroli whispers of love and longing in the tender night air. It is a fragrance of quiet beauty, inviting me to immerse myself fully in the moment, lost in its intoxicating charm.

Moving deeper into the heart of the perfume, I am greeted by the enchanting notes of heliotrope and cinnamon, their warm and spicy embrace reminiscent of a lover's touch. The heliotrope unfolds like a velvet petal, its powdery sweetness mingling with the comforting warmth of cinnamon, creating an aura of sensual allure. Amidst this intoxicating blend, the floral symphony of rose, jasmine, gardenia, and ylang-ylang begins to bloom, each note adding its own unique melody to the tender night's song. The roses whisper of romance, the jasmine of passion, the gardenia of innocence, and the ylang-ylang of exotic sensuality, weaving together a tapestry of emotions that captivates the heart.

As the night deepens and the stars above begin to twinkle with greater intensity, the base notes of vanilla, ambergris, benzoin, sandalwood, musk, oakmoss, tonka bean, and vetiver emerge like the earthy embrace of a lover. The vanilla envelops me in its warm, sweet embrace, while the ambergris adds a touch of mystery and intrigue. The benzoin infuses the air with its resinous warmth, blending seamlessly with the creamy richness of sandalwood and the animalic allure of musk. Oakmoss lends a whisper of earthy freshness, while tonka bean adds a subtle hint of sweetness. And finally, vetiver grounds the fragrance with its smoky, woody aroma, anchoring me to the present moment even as my senses soar on the wings of desire.

Together, these individual ingredients combine to create a soft floral oriental fragrance for women that is as tender and captivating as the night itself. It is a scent that speaks of love, longing, and the timeless beauty of the feminine spirit, inviting me to lose myself in its embrace and surrender to the magic of the moment.

Bottles:

Tendres Nuits was presented in a slender, transparent glass bottle featuring a flat, frosted glass stopper—a marked departure from Isabey's previous opulent and elaborate bottle designs. This shift was primarily driven by the escalating production costs of the older styled bottles. The economic downturn of the Great Depression compelled numerous perfume brands, including Isabey, to streamline their packaging and adopt more cost-effective solutions. Consequently, Isabey transitioned to a simpler and more affordable flacon design, which soon became the standard for the brand throughout the 1930s and into the 1940s.

In response to this shift, Isabey took proactive measures to manage its inventory. The remaining inventory of the luxurious bottles was meticulously filled, boxed, and offered to retailers at reduced prices. These retailers subsequently initiated clearance sales, making the old stock available to consumers at significantly discounted rates—sometimes as much as half price or less. This strategic move allowed Isabey to adapt to changing market dynamics while continuing to provide its clientele with exquisite fragrances in a more accessible manner.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The name "Tendres Nuits"  was filed by Isabey for US trademark in 1944. I believe it was withdrawn soon after production. A competitor, Lancome, released their perfume, Tendres Nuits in 1935. During WWII, importations of Lancome fragrances such as Tropiques, Tendres Nuit, Fleches, Cuir, Conquete, Bocages, Peut Etre, and Kypre were halted and did not return to US soil until 1946. 

It appears there was a notable overlap and perhaps some confusion regarding the trademark filing for "Tendres Nuits" by Isabey in 1944, especially considering Lancôme's earlier release of a perfume under the same name in 1935. This timing suggests a potential challenge in establishing exclusive rights to the name "Tendres Nuits" in the United States.

The interruption of importations of Lancôme fragrances, including "Tendres Nuits," to the US during World War II further complicates the landscape. These import restrictions likely impacted the availability and competition of fragrances in the American market during that time period.

Given these circumstances, it's plausible that Isabey faced difficulties in securing the trademark for "Tendres Nuits" in the US, potentially leading to the withdrawal of the filing after production.

The convergence of these events underscores the complexities and challenges faced by perfume brands during wartime, including issues related to trademarks, competition, and import regulations.

Revival of Tendres Nuits:

It's intriguing how fragrances from the past find new life in the present. Isabey's decision to revive the long-discontinued perfume under the name "Tendre Nuit" in 2018 likely aimed to pay homage to its heritage while captivating contemporary audiences with its timeless allure. This revival not only celebrates the legacy of the original scent but also offers a fresh interpretation for modern sensibilities. It's fascinating to witness how perfumes can transcend time, connecting different eras through the power of scent.

From Isabey: 

"The Story: First created by Isabey Paris in 1944 in New York, Tendre Nuit (Tender night) is remembered for its romantic name, like a whisper. The poetic and flamboyant plum colour of the bottle combined with voluptuous night Rose and animal Ambrette seeds fragrance are inspired by emotions of a tender and passionate night. It is 3 am in Paris, she is sitting on the edge of her bed in a room filled by sensations. Love is floating in the air, sweet and sensual like a night Rose. A warm breeze from the balcony thru the room is caressing her skin. The night is tender, her life is a dream."

Fragrance Composition:

From Isabey:

"The Fragrance: A night of love and passion when the quintessence of femininity is revealed by an extraordinary swirl of Rose Oil and Absolute. Coupled with Ambroxan, the Queen of flowers is wrapped in an addictive mystery, and finally opens on the powdery drydown of Ambrette, for a caressing sensuality. The unforgettable fragrance of a desired and beloved skin."

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral amber fragrance for women.

• Top notes: almond, pink pepper
• Middle notes: rose oil, rose absolute, ambrette seeds
• Base notes: ambroxan, cashmeran, benzoin, vanilla Co2

The classification of "Tendre Nuit" as a floral amber fragrance for women suggests a blend of rich and sensual notes designed to evoke elegance and warmth.

In the top notes, the subtle sweetness of almond is complemented by the delicate spice of pink pepper, creating an inviting and intriguing opening.

Moving into the heart of the fragrance, the essence of rose unfolds in layers, combining the freshness of rose oil with the depth of rose absolute, while ambrette seeds add a touch of musky sophistication.

As the scent develops, the base notes provide a luxurious foundation, with ambroxan and cashmeran adding depth and complexity, balanced by the sweetness of benzoin and the comforting warmth of vanilla Co2.

Together, these notes harmonize to create a captivating olfactory journey, capturing the essence of tender nights in a timeless and alluring fragrance.

Bottles:

The packaging of Tendre Nuit Eau de Parfum is a harmonious blend of modern aesthetics and a nod to Isabey's rich heritage. The bottle design marries contemporary elegance with the timeless charm of a 1920s Isabey bottle, which was crafted by the renowned Czech master glass artisan, Ludwig Moser.

This fusion of old and new not only pays homage to Isabey's illustrious past but also infuses the fragrance with a sense of sophistication and refinement. The result is a stunning presentation that captures the essence of Tendre Nuit—timeless beauty encapsulated in a bottle that is as exquisite as the scent it holds.

You can purchase the 50ml flacon directly from Parfums Isabey's website. A 10ml travel flacon of the eau de parfum was also released which is great for carrying in your handbag.

A Travers la Voilette c1925

The launch of "A Travers la Voilette" by Isabey in 1925 coincided with a fascinating period in history. The 1920s, often referred to as the "Roaring Twenties," were characterized by significant cultural shifts, particularly in fashion, art, and societal norms. This was the era of flappers, jazz, Art Deco, and the emancipation of women.

The choice of the name "Through the Veil" likely reflects the spirit of this time period. The term "veil" carries a symbolic weight, suggesting mystery, allure, and a sense of hidden depths waiting to be explored. In the context of the 1920s, it could evoke the idea of breaking free from traditional constraints and societal norms, peeling back the layers to reveal new possibilities and experiences.

While the name "Through the Veil" doesn't explicitly mention bridal veils, it could still be interpreted in that context. The 1920s witnessed significant changes in wedding attire and customs, with bridal fashion reflecting the more liberated spirit of the era. The use of the veil motif on the presentation box and bottle further reinforces the idea of unveiling something new, perhaps symbolizing the journey into a world of luxury, sensuality, and sophistication that the perfume promises to offer.

Overall, "Through the Veil" captures the essence of the 1920s zeitgeist, with its blend of mystique, modernity, and a hint of romance.

Sir Gallahad by Isabey c1924

The launch of Sir Gallahad perfume by Isabey in 1924 occurred during the interwar period, a time marked by significant social and cultural shifts following World War I. This era was characterized by the Roaring Twenties, a time of economic prosperity, cultural dynamism, and changing social norms. Fashion, art, and literature flourished, with a strong emphasis on luxury and decadence among the upper classes.

The choice of the name "Sir Gallahad" for a perfume during this time period reflects the fascination with romanticism, chivalry, and the medieval era. Sir Gallahad is a legendary figure from Arthurian lore, known for his purity, bravery, and quest for the Holy Grail. By associating the perfume with such a noble and heroic character, Isabey sought to evoke notions of elegance, sophistication, and timeless allure.

The use of the knight theme in perfume naming, including Isabey's Sir Gallahad and Ciro's Chevalier de la Nuit, likely stemmed from the popular fascination with medieval romance and chivalry during the early 20th century. These themes appealed to the imaginations of consumers, offering a sense of escape from the realities of the modern world.

Moreover, the competition between Sir Gallahad and Chevalier de la Nuit reflects the rivalry among perfume houses to capture the attention and patronage of consumers during this period of burgeoning consumer culture. Both perfumes aimed to embody ideals of romance, mystery, and sophistication, catering to the tastes and desires of the fashionable elite.

In summary, the launch of Sir Gallahad perfume in 1924 coincided with a period of cultural fascination with romanticism and chivalry. The choice of the name and theme reflects the desire to evoke notions of elegance and sophistication, while also competing in the flourishing perfume market of the time.

La Route d'Emeraude by Isabey c1924

La Route d'Emeraude by Isabey, launched in 1924, emerges from a period rich in both historical transformation and cultural opulence. This era saw significant strides in luxury and elegance, a time when the legacy of ancient trade routes continued to shape the Western world's fascination with exotic goods and precious gemstones.

The 1920s, often referred to as the Roaring Twenties, was a decade marked by economic prosperity and cultural dynamism in many parts of the world, particularly in the United States and Europe. This period followed the devastating impacts of World War I and was characterized by a strong desire for newness and modernity. Society was undergoing rapid changes with advancements in technology, transportation, and communication, which in turn influenced fashion, art, and luxury goods.

Le Rayon Vert by Isabey c1927

The debut of "Le Rayon Vert" by Isabey in 1927 coincided with a period of remarkable cultural and technological evolution, the vibrant era of the Roaring Twenties. This was a time marked by a surge of freedom and creativity post-World War I, particularly palpable in urban hubs like Paris, where the fragrance industry thrived alongside art and fashion, adding another layer of sophistication to the city's allure.

The name "Le Rayon Vert" was a deliberate choice, drawing on the term "Rayon" introduced in 1924 for synthetic silk fabric. This selection symbolized the era's embrace of innovation, seamlessly blending natural and artificial elements. "Rayon," stemming from the French word for "ray" or "beam," hinted at luminosity, mirroring the fragrance's radiant qualities.

Furthermore, the name held significance in the context of Isabey's response to Millot's "Crepe de Chine" perfume, launched two years prior. "Crepe de Chine," named after a luxurious silk fabric, set a high standard in the perfume industry. Isabey's "Le Rayon Vert" aimed to match or surpass this standard, embodying the elegance and allure synonymous with its namesake.

The competition between Isabey and Millot reflected the competitive spirit of the 1920s perfume scene, where brands vied for supremacy through innovative scents and marketing strategies. In this dynamic environment, "Le Rayon Vert" emerged as a beacon of modernity and sophistication, capturing the essence of its time in a single bottle.

L'Ambre de Carthage by Isabey c1924

L'Ambre de Carthage by Isabey, launched in 1924, was introduced during the Roaring Twenties, a fascinating and transitional period characterized by dramatic social and cultural changes, economic prosperity, and a break from traditional norms, particularly in Western countries. This era saw the rise of jazz music, flapper fashion, and significant advancements in art, literature, and technology. Women's roles in society were evolving, with greater emphasis on independence and self-expression following World War I. Perfumes became an essential accessory, reflecting the modern woman's identity and style.

The perfume, created by Jean Jacques, drew inspiration from the ancient city of Carthage, located in modern-day Tunisia. Carthage was a prominent and influential civilization in the ancient Mediterranean, known for its wealth, culture, and historical significance. Founded by the Phoenicians in the 9th century BCE, Carthage grew to become a powerful city-state with a vast trading empire that stretched across the Mediterranean. Its strategic location made it a center of commerce and culture, renowned for its luxury goods, advanced architecture, and complex social structures. The name "L'Ambre de Carthage" evokes this rich and exotic heritage, aiming to capture the essence of ancient opulence and mystery.

Mon Seul Ami by Isabey c1928

The launch of "Mon Seul Ami" by Isabey in 1928 coincided with a fascinating time period in the realm of romance and femininity. The 1920s, often referred to as the Roaring Twenties, was a time of significant social and cultural change, particularly for women. This was the era of the "flapper," a term used to describe a new breed of young women who embraced a liberated lifestyle, defying traditional gender roles and expectations.

Against the backdrop of this newfound freedom and empowerment, perfume took on a special significance. It became more than just a fragrance; it became a symbol of femininity, sensuality, and independence. Perfume was not merely a luxury item; it was a statement of identity and self-expression for the modern woman.

In this context, "Mon Seul Ami" ("My Only Friend") by Isabey emerged as a companion to the modern girl, a secret confidante dedicated to her alone. The name itself suggests an intimate relationship between the wearer and the fragrance, emphasizing its role as a loyal and trustworthy friend in a world of change and uncertainty.

The scent of "Mon Seul Ami" likely embodied the spirit of the era, with notes that captured the allure and sophistication of the modern woman. It would have been designed to complement her dynamic lifestyle, whether she was dancing the night away in a jazz club or asserting her independence in the workplace.

Overall, the launch of "Mon Seul Ami" in 1928 would have been a reflection of its time, celebrating the newfound freedom and confidence of women in the Roaring Twenties while offering them a timeless and intimate companion in the form of a fragrance.